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Old 07-04-2004, 01:01 PM
  #31  
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It's also CHEAPER to upgrade your wiring vs buying a cap too.
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Old 07-04-2004, 02:11 PM
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As stated, do the big three upgrade first and see how that goes. Upgrade to a high output alternater if needed. Caps are a waste of money unless you buy a massive one and already have the electrical system to charge it.
Also, if you find you need a higher amperage alternater don't buy a OEM unit that has just been rewound to get higher amps. It will only produce the higher ratings at higher rpm's and will actually output LESS than the stock unit at idle.
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Old 07-04-2004, 10:02 PM
  #33  
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Originally posted by Hardwrkr:
don't buy a OEM unit that has just been rewound to get higher amps. It will only produce the higher ratings at higher rpm's and will actually output LESS than the stock unit at idle.
I upgraded mine last year with a rewound one, it does 125Amp apposed to the stock 95amp oem one.. and i know its working at Idle (750rpm) because my Cap jumps up to 14.7V reading when running idle. Now it does peak with more rpm (1600rpm) to 15.4V. With the engine off i get a nice 12.4V reading.
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Old 07-04-2004, 10:24 PM
  #34  
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How much did it cost u
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Old 07-05-2004, 01:38 AM
  #35  
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Alternators are pricey, but I'd take one over a cap any day.

If anyone considers doing an Alt upgrade and their car is not so new, I'd recommend changing the VREG if the alt isn't internally regulated. [img]smile.gif[/img]

Here's how I rate order of importance of upgrading electrical components from highest to lowest:

1)Battery
2)Grounds
3)Main wiring
4)Alternator
5)Capacitor (actually it's very far from #4)

[ July 05, 2004, 02:48 AM: Message edited by: Chadxton ]
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Old 07-05-2004, 01:42 AM
  #36  
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VREG?
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Old 07-05-2004, 01:48 AM
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Voltage regulator.
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Old 07-05-2004, 04:15 AM
  #38  
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Originally posted by Rockney:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Hardwrkr:
don't buy a OEM unit that has just been rewound to get higher amps. It will only produce the higher ratings at higher rpm's and will actually output LESS than the stock unit at idle.
I upgraded mine last year with a rewound one, it does 125Amp apposed to the stock 95amp oem one.. and i know its working at Idle (750rpm) because my Cap jumps up to 14.7V reading when running idle. Now it does peak with more rpm (1600rpm) to 15.4V. With the engine off i get a nice 12.4V reading. </font>[/QUOTE]The alternater is going to start working as soon as you start your car (and will raise voltage immediately in turn) but my point is a rewound unit is not as good at low rpm compared to a true H.O. piece and if you bump the system around town it may not be a good choice.
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Old 07-05-2004, 07:59 AM
  #39  
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Originally posted by Z24 GrrL:
How much did it cost u
I can't remember the cost of it.. I believe it was under $200. I had to replace my alternator at the time and the higher output one was like 30 to 40 dollars more.

Gotta think, how long do you plan on keeping the Z24.. if you plan on getting a different car within the next year,, i would just use the stock one and look into the voltage regulator part,, it will be less expensive..
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Old 07-05-2004, 08:10 AM
  #40  
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u dont need a cap. just goog grounds and if u wish a new battery. upgraded alternator to battery wiring and upgraded battery to frame ground.
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