wasted911

iTrader: (2)

that's what I was kind of thinking of too.. just to keep it on the easy/smaller side. Just a ported box tuned to like 10 or 15 hertz

or is that too low for the woofer?

wasted911

iTrader: (2)

and for the record, this is more or less the first time I'm really doing a HT subwoofer.

wasted911

iTrader: (2)

Alright, I got the design done. What do you guys think?

8.743 cubic feet after port and sub displacement (not including bracing yet)
101.25 Square inches of port.
Tuned to 17.7 hertz

outer dimensions: 60" tall, 24" wide, 24" deep.

Another thing, cosmetics-wise, shoudl the sub be place at the top of the enclosure, in the middle, or at the bottom?

wasted911

iTrader: (2)

pictures yay!

here's design #2 that I originally thought I was going to go with, but do to problems when it comes to bracing, it wont be an option... design #1 will be the design used. Pictures of that one will be posted later, when I draw it up.

Design #2

wasted911

iTrader: (2)

hoooray, pictures of the final design...

Same dimensions, only it should be a little easier to do the bracing.

Audio_Rookie

iTrader: (2)

holy thats pretty fancy. You wont have problems mounting the plate amplifier with that box design?

that looks like a super fancy dancy box. Are those top 3 pieces of wood just for bracing?

wasted911

iTrader: (2)

yep, those would be the braces... For the plate amp I'll probably be turning it into a rack mount

Who knows..

jettalemon

I think that having the sub lower close to the floor would be a little better. It would be a little more stable for when your really cruching the volume. And for balance that's a pretty heavy driver you got there. The back and forth motion of the cone when playing might cause it to fall.

wasted911

iTrader: (2)

well I was talking to some home theater guys, and they said to get rid of all of the folds. So looks liek it's back to the drawing board for me. I have the feeling that this box may be getting taller.

BigRedGuy

iTrader: (11)

Another one of those quirks.....in a car, big vents and slow air speed help raise SPL. In a home theatre sub, smaller vents give more punch.

Try modelling that driver in a sealed 4 or 5 cuft box. Keeping the same box size, port it and try tuning it around 30hz or so. With a vent around 4" square the port air speed number should still be pretty low, but if the vent is facing the wall or corner it will not be audible.

Have fun with it, I have a couple HT subs to build in the next month or so and would like to hear how your project works out....