WRX BugEye "Classical" Install
#1
WRX BugEye "Classical" Install
I'm doing a classical install in a 2002 Subaru WRX.
More of a reinstall...
Head Unit: Pioneer Premier PRS800 w/ CD-200BTB
Signal Processor: SoundStream PQ7
Amplifier: Premier D-2000SPL Champion
Front Speakers: Premier 6.75" component
Rear Speakers: Premier 6.75" coaxial
Subwoofers: TCSounds Epic 10" DVC 2Ohm x 2
Enclosures: MagicBox Sealed WRX Sedan pair
Power Wire: StreetWires 1/0
Ground (and Big 5): StreetWires 1/0
Connectors/Distribution: StreetWires Platinum
Battery: Optima YellowTop 1100CCA/950CA
Signal Wire: Esoteric Audio A5 RCA throughout, American Cable 8awg OFC speaker cable Silver soldered, not clamped or crimped!
I have a pair of AutoMeter volt gauges, one is to the amp distribution block, the other to the battery. No problems with this setup, but I am going to be getting a better alternator, 140amp, the OEM is 100amp, but the 40 is for lighting. The stereo is nothing compared to 440 watts of headlamps... it is a WRX, and race-ready for the most part, thus the stealthy boxes...
pics are coming.
The reason for the rebuild is this. I have a JL StealthBox MicroSub 8.3 reloaded with 8w3v3s, and I want the triangle brace for the rear suspension. I ahve Cusco coilovers, and they flex the tail something fierce... so along with an upgrade to the rear swaybar, which is done, I need frame stiffening. The dront brace was easy, a 5 minute install, so should the rear, with the seat out...
So I will be removing the JL enclosure, with NEW subs, I haven't even heard them yet... and selling it.
ebay listing coming also.
As for pics, I have one of the boxes mounted and carpeted, but no subs... those are on the way. TC subs are amazing.
I'll keep updating this and editing so that it isn't boring at the end...
More of a reinstall...
Head Unit: Pioneer Premier PRS800 w/ CD-200BTB
Signal Processor: SoundStream PQ7
Amplifier: Premier D-2000SPL Champion
Front Speakers: Premier 6.75" component
Rear Speakers: Premier 6.75" coaxial
Subwoofers: TCSounds Epic 10" DVC 2Ohm x 2
Enclosures: MagicBox Sealed WRX Sedan pair
Power Wire: StreetWires 1/0
Ground (and Big 5): StreetWires 1/0
Connectors/Distribution: StreetWires Platinum
Battery: Optima YellowTop 1100CCA/950CA
Signal Wire: Esoteric Audio A5 RCA throughout, American Cable 8awg OFC speaker cable Silver soldered, not clamped or crimped!
I have a pair of AutoMeter volt gauges, one is to the amp distribution block, the other to the battery. No problems with this setup, but I am going to be getting a better alternator, 140amp, the OEM is 100amp, but the 40 is for lighting. The stereo is nothing compared to 440 watts of headlamps... it is a WRX, and race-ready for the most part, thus the stealthy boxes...
pics are coming.
The reason for the rebuild is this. I have a JL StealthBox MicroSub 8.3 reloaded with 8w3v3s, and I want the triangle brace for the rear suspension. I ahve Cusco coilovers, and they flex the tail something fierce... so along with an upgrade to the rear swaybar, which is done, I need frame stiffening. The dront brace was easy, a 5 minute install, so should the rear, with the seat out...
So I will be removing the JL enclosure, with NEW subs, I haven't even heard them yet... and selling it.
ebay listing coming also.
As for pics, I have one of the boxes mounted and carpeted, but no subs... those are on the way. TC subs are amazing.
I'll keep updating this and editing so that it isn't boring at the end...
#2
I'm doing a classical install in a 2002 Subaru WRX.
More of a reinstall...
Head Unit: Pioneer Premier PRS800 w/ CD-200BTB
Signal Processor: SoundStream PQ7
Amplifier: Premier D-2000SPL Champion
Front Speakers: Premier 6.75" component
Rear Speakers: Premier 6.75" coaxial
Subwoofers: TCSounds Epic 10" DVC 2Ohm x 2
Enclosures: MagicBox Sealed WRX Sedan pair
Power Wire: StreetWires 1/0
Ground (and Big 5): StreetWires 1/0
Connectors/Distribution: StreetWires Platinum
Battery: Optima YellowTop 1100CCA/950CA
Signal Wire: Esoteric Audio A5 RCA throughout, American Cable 8awg OFC speaker cable Silver soldered, not clamped or crimped!
I have a pair of AutoMeter volt gauges, one is to the amp distribution block, the other to the battery. No problems with this setup, but I am going to be getting a better alternator, 140amp, the OEM is 100amp, but the 40 is for lighting. The stereo is nothing compared to 440 watts of headlamps... it is a WRX, and race-ready for the most part, thus the stealthy boxes...
pics are coming.
The reason for the rebuild is this. I have a JL StealthBox MicroSub 8.3 reloaded with 8w3v3s, and I want the triangle brace for the rear suspension. I ahve Cusco coilovers, and they flex the tail something fierce... so along with an upgrade to the rear swaybar, which is done, I need frame stiffening. The dront brace was easy, a 5 minute install, so should the rear, with the seat out...
So I will be removing the JL enclosure, with NEW subs, I haven't even heard them yet... and selling it.
ebay listing coming also.
As for pics, I have one of the boxes mounted and carpeted, but no subs... those are on the way. TC subs are amazing.
I'll keep updating this and editing so that it isn't boring at the end...
More of a reinstall...
Head Unit: Pioneer Premier PRS800 w/ CD-200BTB
Signal Processor: SoundStream PQ7
Amplifier: Premier D-2000SPL Champion
Front Speakers: Premier 6.75" component
Rear Speakers: Premier 6.75" coaxial
Subwoofers: TCSounds Epic 10" DVC 2Ohm x 2
Enclosures: MagicBox Sealed WRX Sedan pair
Power Wire: StreetWires 1/0
Ground (and Big 5): StreetWires 1/0
Connectors/Distribution: StreetWires Platinum
Battery: Optima YellowTop 1100CCA/950CA
Signal Wire: Esoteric Audio A5 RCA throughout, American Cable 8awg OFC speaker cable Silver soldered, not clamped or crimped!
I have a pair of AutoMeter volt gauges, one is to the amp distribution block, the other to the battery. No problems with this setup, but I am going to be getting a better alternator, 140amp, the OEM is 100amp, but the 40 is for lighting. The stereo is nothing compared to 440 watts of headlamps... it is a WRX, and race-ready for the most part, thus the stealthy boxes...
pics are coming.
The reason for the rebuild is this. I have a JL StealthBox MicroSub 8.3 reloaded with 8w3v3s, and I want the triangle brace for the rear suspension. I ahve Cusco coilovers, and they flex the tail something fierce... so along with an upgrade to the rear swaybar, which is done, I need frame stiffening. The dront brace was easy, a 5 minute install, so should the rear, with the seat out...
So I will be removing the JL enclosure, with NEW subs, I haven't even heard them yet... and selling it.
ebay listing coming also.
As for pics, I have one of the boxes mounted and carpeted, but no subs... those are on the way. TC subs are amazing.
I'll keep updating this and editing so that it isn't boring at the end...
Item
Type
Vehicle type
Model
Designation
Reduction type
MT vehicles AT vehicles
228000 - 9270 MOOIT86481
Manufacturer
Voltage and output
Direction of rotation
Number of pinion teeth
No-load charac- Current
teristics
Voltage
Rotating speed
Current
Load characteristics
Torque
Voltage
DENS0 Mitsubishi Electric
Counterclockwise (when observed from pinion)
9
11 v
90 A or less
8V 7.7 v
280 A 400 A
16.0 N.m (1.63 kg-m, 11.8 ft-lb) or
more
12 V - 1 .O kW 12V-1.4kW
2,860 rpm or more 2,400 rpm or more
9.3 N.m (0.95 kg-m, 6.9 ft-lb) or more
Lock characteristics
Armature connection I 3-phase Y-type
Rotating speed 860 rpm or more 740 rpm or more
Current 515 A or less 940 A or less
Torque
Voltage 5 v 3.5 v
16 N.m (1.63 kgf-m, 11.8 ft-lb) or 28.9 N.m (2.95 kgf-m, 21.3 ft-lb) or
more more
Output current
Type
1,500 rpm - 30 A or more
2,500 rpm - 64 A or more
5.000 rDm - 76 A or more
Rotating-field three-phase type, Voltage regulator built-in type, with load
response control system
Model
Manufacturer
Polarity on ground side
Rotatina direction
Voltage and output
sc-3
A2TB6291
Mitsubishi Electric
Negative
Clockwise (when observed from pulley side)
12 V - 75 A
Regulated voltage 14.1 - 14.8 V [20°C (68"F)
Last edited by godzilla1978; 03-06-2011 at 11:17 PM.
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