jono_s

i have some noob questions regarding the wiring details needed to hook up the following amp and subs:

- two 10" 4 ohm dual voice coil subwoofers
Peak: 1000W
RMS: 500W

- one 2-channel amplifier ("2 ohm stable")
Maximum Output Power @ 2 Ohms: 600W x 2CH
Power Output @ 2 Ohms: 240W x 2CH
Power Output @ 4 Ohms: 170W x 2CH
Power Output Bridged: 480W x 1CH
THD: 0.02% @ 2 Ohms, 0.1% @ 4 Ohms
Signal to Noise Ratio: >95dB
Frequency Response: 15Hz to 40kHz
Crossover: Separates
High-pass: 50Hz to 1kHz Variable
Low-pass: 30Hz to 500Hz Variable
Slope: 24dB Octave
Subsonic Filter: 10Hz to 100Hz Variable
Bass Boost: 0 dB to 18dB Variable
Input Sensitivity: 200mV to 6V Variable
Low level Input Impedance: 47K Ohm
Damping Factor: 180 into 4 Ohm
Channel Separation: >80dB
High & Low Level Input through RCA
Dual Protection (Thermal & Short Circuit)
2 Ohm Stable
Tri-Mode Capability
Power Supply Consumption (Bridged RMS): 57A
Fuse Rating: maxi 60A

my questions are:

1. what gauge of power cable should i use? i believe i will need at least 4 gauge?

2. can the amp power these subs adequately?

3. if so, what is the best wiring configuration to use for my hardware? the amp looks like it can be wired for either 2CH or mono.

i can't post proper URLs yet (5 post limit), but here's what i was looking at, which is better?

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_4-ohm_2ch.jpg
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg

MTT

iTrader: (17)

you cant get a 2 Ohm load (optimal for this amp) out of two DVC 4 Ohm subs, so you'll be severely underpowering those subs.

Do you already have the equipment?...or just considering buying this stuff?

jono_s

i already have the equipment.

i had it installed professionally in a previous vehicle ~2 years ago. i took it out when i sold it, now want to put it in the new vehicle. the guys that installed it aren't in business any more... i think i know why....

jono_s

i'm not sure what is worth more money, the amp or the two subs (neither are brand-name). but what would be requirements of a new amp? 1 ohm stable, with at least 1000W peak?

MTT

iTrader: (17)

yup, or 4 Ohm.

Njord

this is what you want.
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/..._4-ohm_2ch.jpg

I'm not sure what MTT is talking about. You can get a 2ohm load. Running the 4ohm DVC in parallel will give you 2ohm for each sub.
Since your amp supports 2ohms, and has 2 channels. Each sub will get 240w (I hope thats RMS). Like MTT said, "you'll be severely underpowering those subs" as each sub is 500W RMS.

NEVER use Peak power for ANYTHING. RMS only.

Njord

I suggest getting a new amp for those subs (1000w RMS). But if its a no name sub, the RMS rating is probably overrated.

jono_s

Njord, it was running with this setup before in my old vehicle, and seemed fine (although i have no basis for comparison). i'm pretty sure it was "bridged" before when the "pro's" installed it (the mono diagram link)

if i hook the subs up again (but with 2-channel wiring instead, as in the diagram) since the subs are still being underpowered i guess i can assume i'm in danger of wrecking the subs?

Njord

If it was bridged then you were getting 340w RMS (170w RMS per sub) Which is retarded. If you were to redo this, and not buy any new equipment. I suggest wiring it up like I said above. then you'll get 240W RMS to each sub.

Still, buying a new amp would be better (maybe new subs too)

"since the subs are still being underpowered i guess i can assume i'm in danger of wrecking the subs?"
Well, yes, but no. Yes if you really push the subs, the amp will just start to distort. Thus potentially wrecking them.
But if you keep it below the distorting point, you'll be fine.

Grammar....

jono_s

ok, i'll see how it goes wiring as per your suggestion, and look into getting a better amp. thanks for the help.