Wiring actuators for power door lock troubles
#1
Hey folks. I'm on holidays out in BC, sitting at my parents house. Was hoping my pops might know a lil bit more about all this, but turns out thats note the case.
About a year back or a lil more, when i first go tmy jeep, i had a local shop install my compustar alarm along with power door locks to all four doors of my 94 grand cherokee SE. They worked fine for quite a while, then i think one of the rear doors quit opening, and the other became intermittent and now doesn't do anything. Being that it was winter, i never took it apart to look, but now that it's warm and there's time i've done so.
actual problem is the rear locks/actuators aren't working at all as if they're not getting power. I took the door panel off to find two wires winding there way in, neither having any real descriptive writing of any sort. With a voltmeter, i tested each wire. One gave .120 volts on either locking of closing (not sure which, but definitely not both) The other gave like .075v on either lock or close. Does this likely mean there's a bad connectino somewhere down the way? Or that my testing practices are garbage? I would assume these parts would require 12v to lock or unlock, but i'm not really smart that way or familiar with things. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
About a year back or a lil more, when i first go tmy jeep, i had a local shop install my compustar alarm along with power door locks to all four doors of my 94 grand cherokee SE. They worked fine for quite a while, then i think one of the rear doors quit opening, and the other became intermittent and now doesn't do anything. Being that it was winter, i never took it apart to look, but now that it's warm and there's time i've done so.
actual problem is the rear locks/actuators aren't working at all as if they're not getting power. I took the door panel off to find two wires winding there way in, neither having any real descriptive writing of any sort. With a voltmeter, i tested each wire. One gave .120 volts on either locking of closing (not sure which, but definitely not both) The other gave like .075v on either lock or close. Does this likely mean there's a bad connectino somewhere down the way? Or that my testing practices are garbage? I would assume these parts would require 12v to lock or unlock, but i'm not really smart that way or familiar with things. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
#2
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Do you have a 12V cordless drill? If so take it's battery and hook it up to the power lock wires. Usually they are green and blue, don't worry about polarity as putting them one way will lock the doors and reversing them will unlock the doors. That is the simplest way to check if the motors are still working. In fact I always do this three or four times with the door panel off, to make sure there is no binding on the rods when I do power lock installs.
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