Sound deadening doors!
05-14-2004, 05:37 AM
#42
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 1,649
I was going to post something but forgot what I was going to say. Man I'm getting old too fast [img]graemlins/banghead.gif[/img]
Hey Daffy Dukk, what car are you working on.............. yours ?!?!? Ha, ha, ha...... *sigh* Yup, I still have nothing useful to add. [img]graemlins/2xblown.gif[/img]
Hey Daffy Dukk, what car are you working on.............. yours ?!?!? Ha, ha, ha...... *sigh* Yup, I still have nothing useful to add. [img]graemlins/2xblown.gif[/img]
05-14-2004, 07:51 AM
#43
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,783
The modeling clay is holding up fine. Give it a try, if you don't like it you can scrape it off. Fiberglass and bondo are much more labour intensive, and not as good at absorbing vibration.
Tom...go change a diaper.
Adam
Tom...go change a diaper.
Adam
05-16-2004, 09:15 AM
#45
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 146
I just finished Deadening my doors. I put 1 Layer inside the door frame, and 7-12 layers directly behind my speaker using B-Quiet extreme and some Deflex Pads.
My midbass is greatly improved and the structure of the Speaker baffle FRAME is solid now compared to the flimsy 16 Gauge steel.
I'm using a small 6" woofer and very small mounting depth...crossed @ 140 hz and up...And beleive me this little woofer Massages [img]graemlins/jawdrop.gif[/img] my skull on certain Trance techno tracks and reproduces synthesizer sounds very well.
I didn't think something this small could do that much...I still have some more tweaking to do...but the difference between one layer and 7-12 layers is amazing!! I'm glad I did it. And I recomend it to anyone that wants to get a good skull massage. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
My midbass is greatly improved and the structure of the Speaker baffle FRAME is solid now compared to the flimsy 16 Gauge steel.
I'm using a small 6" woofer and very small mounting depth...crossed @ 140 hz and up...And beleive me this little woofer Massages [img]graemlins/jawdrop.gif[/img] my skull on certain Trance techno tracks and reproduces synthesizer sounds very well.
I didn't think something this small could do that much...I still have some more tweaking to do...but the difference between one layer and 7-12 layers is amazing!! I'm glad I did it. And I recomend it to anyone that wants to get a good skull massage. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
05-16-2004, 10:05 AM
#47
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,783
The type that I used does not dry. I'm tempted to just send you my last 2lb block of it.
But...I still may need it for my midranges.
This is what it says on the package:
Chavant NSP-Soft sulfur free Plasteline
I hope that helps.
Adam
But...I still may need it for my midranges.
This is what it says on the package:
Chavant NSP-Soft sulfur free Plasteline
I hope that helps.
Adam
05-16-2004, 10:23 AM
#48
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 238
Hey guys, my rear 6.5"'s had a plastic abs or pvc plastic ported enclosure. It's a really wierd whape to fill in the area. I have to modify it to accept my new type r components (the magnet is too big)
do you think i should scrap em and build a frame for the speakers, or would they be worth the trouble of making the speakers fit?
if yes, how do I determine if they are abs or pvc to determine which adhesive I should be using? I have tried using a heat gun to mold them, but the gun wasnt powerful enough to soften the plastic all the way thru, and I don't have access to a bigger gun.
sorry if this is off topic, i figured this might be an appropriate thread to attach this to.
do you think i should scrap em and build a frame for the speakers, or would they be worth the trouble of making the speakers fit?
if yes, how do I determine if they are abs or pvc to determine which adhesive I should be using? I have tried using a heat gun to mold them, but the gun wasnt powerful enough to soften the plastic all the way thru, and I don't have access to a bigger gun.
sorry if this is off topic, i figured this might be an appropriate thread to attach this to.
05-16-2004, 12:39 PM
#49
Adam,
thanks for the speedy reply and additional info.
i just finished doing the clay on one of the doors. it feels pretty solid although the clay is not rigid... doing the next door in the next few minutes. i'm thinking the large open area that i can't mount the baffle over (clearence issues) will be sealed with fiberglass after all...
thanks for the speedy reply and additional info.
i just finished doing the clay on one of the doors. it feels pretty solid although the clay is not rigid... doing the next door in the next few minutes. i'm thinking the large open area that i can't mount the baffle over (clearence issues) will be sealed with fiberglass after all...
05-17-2004, 04:55 PM
#50
Holy Cow!! i finished both doors and i can't believe how good it sounds! running full range, the midbass extend to what seems to be 40hz without breaking a sweat! the W7 is getting jealous! i'm currently running the midbass with the canton tweets and i'm impressed at how full the sound seems. only problem now is the ratle the wiring harnesses behind the skins are making with all the bass floating around... time for some creative solutions...
