Mullen

Hi Guys ...

Just received a shipment ordered 100sq ft of B-quiet Extreme . I will be doing all four doors on my 2010 F150 My questions is this being my first time using any deadening materiel .. What needs to be covered on my doors should I seal up all the factory holes? I know the factory designs these holes for weight savings. But sound wise, for my Kappa perfects going into the fronts . Would it not be best to make the doors as air tight as possible. or will this cause other unforeseen problems down the road?

Njord

When I did my doors I sealed them up as best as I could (use wire loom for the door handle/lock rods) and it made a great deal of difference. Just remember not to cover the drains in the door for the water. They'll be at the bottom of the door leading outside. Remember to clean any grease and dirt off of the door before applying. B-quiet is very forgiving about this, but nothing is going to stick to grease (For some reason my car had an amazing amount of grease inside the passenger door, but not the drivers door.)
Since you have a truck and weight isn't a problem (not that b quiet is heavy. Its actually lighter then most) I would put down 2 layers on the inner door skin, 1 on the outer. Then put it everywhere you think needs it.
You'll find alot of little things that are rattling that you didnt notice before that will need some deadener applied to it.

edit:
I used b-quiet extreme aswell for my car

novek

Deadening adds resonance to the panels making them vibrate less. You should get some on the outer layer of your door skin, plus some on the door it self. Only 25 to 50 percent coverage is ideal. You can cover more area if you have money and time to burn.

To make your ride quiet and lessen road noise need to add Mass Loaded Vinyl over the deadener. You can put a layer of Closed Cell Foam in-between the deadener and MLV if you want but it is not necessary.

To answer your question, you should seal up the holes. Only "problem" I can foresee is if you need to access something behind the door you will just need to cut into the deadener. Other than that, seal her up. Also don't put deadener over the door and lock lever rods. They will bind up against the stickiness of the deadener and you will have a hard time opening and locking your doors

Mullen

Thanks for the info ... I guess Acetone would be best to clean it all . Know where I can get some CT maybe ?

As for the inner door skins they are freakin huge doors on the truck may just use all 100 sq ft to do them LOL.. I take it its best effort for the inner skins not the easiest place to get at

novek

yep you can get it at CT or HD

danyman

iTrader: (1)

my car doors a huge. and i used prob 30sq feet on both front and i need 1 more layer there goes another 12.. u can mock up the holes with sheet metal. put a bead of silicone. slap that on there put a few self taping screws if u want.. let to dry and then add some deadner to it..

Mr.DatSubishi

I'm using the sheet metal method to fill all the major holes in my inner door panel. I will be screwing them on for easier removal if need be and am going to put a strip of weatherstripping around them, as well and deaden both sides of patches. I wil be deadening inner and outer skins as well with a new product by Xscorpion called "Rattle Block". I've used it quite sparingly on one other job an I, as well as the customer, were quite happy. It retails for about $6 sq/ft to customer before any quantity discount. It's supposed to be as good as dynamat extreme.

Njord

I used Windex to clean my doors. Worked well, its cheap, and not dangerous at all (like Acetone)
Oh and for the large holes I just used more deadener to cover it up. My doors aren't that big though, since my car is an econobox. The biggest hole was probably 1ft^2. Using sheet aluminum (if that wasn't obvious) to cover up large holes could be a good idea. You'll need to make sure they wont rattle otherwise its counterintuitive.