Revamped for summer...
#1
Revamped for summer...
So I have been working on redoing my car for a while now, and beefing up wire etc for the 4 15" Maw's I'm grabbing.
PHD2 is getting fixed, and looks like I'm selling it to some American sucker on a different site for a net profit (I'm stoked to get rid of this pile), and I'm looking for good 6x9's... Any suggestions on 6x9's, or critisisms/comments are welcome.
PHD2 is getting fixed, and looks like I'm selling it to some American sucker on a different site for a net profit (I'm stoked to get rid of this pile), and I'm looking for good 6x9's... Any suggestions on 6x9's, or critisisms/comments are welcome.
#3
4 gauge, cause I already had one run, then i picked up the other 3 for $20, so I figured 4 runs of 4 gauge for $20 is better than 2 runs of 0/1 for like $70
And I don't know what you're trying to say about the fuse... its only there for daily, in the event I need to throw down its coming out
And I don't know what you're trying to say about the fuse... its only there for daily, in the event I need to throw down its coming out
#4
why do you run all the power wire ?
if more wire better power .......yes ok then wouldit not be better to have 4 fuses if you have 4runs of wire
i look at it as a bridge .....alot of power trying to get over it
its only there for daily............what does a fuse holder cost ?
if more wire better power .......yes ok then wouldit not be better to have 4 fuses if you have 4runs of wire
i look at it as a bridge .....alot of power trying to get over it
its only there for daily............what does a fuse holder cost ?
#5
There is a fundamental flaw in your thinking by running multiple wires into a single fuse:
The fuse is designed to protect the individual wires, not the net of the wires. So if you have 4 4awg wires, each wire is capable of a max 120 AMP. But perhaps your using a 160 or higher ANL fuse (which I assume is the case because why else would you need so many runs of wire).
So something goes terribly wrong - maybe a car accident - and ONE and only ONE of your 4 awg lines gets severed and grounds out against the chassis. Since that wire maxes out carrying 120 AMPs, it won't blow the fuse which is rated at 160 or higher. Instead, the wire will continue to short out, creating intense heat until it eventually starts a fire.
Either get 1 single wire, or fuse every wire. Protect your car.
You can do what you have done for grounds, but not for power.
The fuse is designed to protect the individual wires, not the net of the wires. So if you have 4 4awg wires, each wire is capable of a max 120 AMP. But perhaps your using a 160 or higher ANL fuse (which I assume is the case because why else would you need so many runs of wire).
So something goes terribly wrong - maybe a car accident - and ONE and only ONE of your 4 awg lines gets severed and grounds out against the chassis. Since that wire maxes out carrying 120 AMPs, it won't blow the fuse which is rated at 160 or higher. Instead, the wire will continue to short out, creating intense heat until it eventually starts a fire.
Either get 1 single wire, or fuse every wire. Protect your car.
You can do what you have done for grounds, but not for power.
#6
Since that wire maxes out carrying 120 AMPs, it won't blow the fuse which is rated at 160 or higher. Instead, the wire will continue to short out, creating intense heat until it eventually starts a fire.
Not really. If the wire grounded out it would instantly transmit in excess of 1000amps and while yes it would glow and start melting the jacket, the fuse would snap before things got too out of hand. On a 160amp fuse you would likely need 14ga or smaller wire for it to flame on before the fuse went down.
That being said - fundamentally I agree. That's not a great fuse setup.