carpdar

Hey I'm attempting my first decent system build and im hooking it all up on my bedroom floor to a car battery + charger.. I have 2 10" DVC subs i got from my buddy who couldnt take them to australia and they are "Bumper" made in the USA 250 watts each. Now i don't know if that is rms/peak wattage, and i have no idea what the ohm rating is.

Currently they are hooked up to my computer by just swapping the wires from my tiny *** computer sub and they are rather potent and begging for more power. My amp im using is a "Thump" mono-250 watt (serial#ta-1001) and apparently it is bridgable, so my question is.. Since i don't know what the ohm rating on the subs is should i do a test run in series first assuming the subs are 4 ohms and will be sharing 250watts? and if it seems like they could handle more wire the DVC's in parallel and just go easy on the gain and make sure things don't get to hot?

I've looked all over for specs on these subs and all i know is that you can get them in 12"s as well.. :/

ndinadis

iTrader: (2)

no...
what you need to to is get hold of a basic multimeter, set it to measure ohms (unit of impedance) and hook red to red and black to black and it will tell you how many ohm your voice coils are.

BigRedGuy

iTrader: (11)

Hmmmm......no mention of an enclosure for them...... makes it a little harder.....

If they are in a box, does it have 1 or 2 terminal cups to hook the amp up to?? Regardless, you still need to pull at least one of them to verify how the coils are wired up.

If it's a mono amp there no such thing as bridging it, if there are 2 sets of connectors they are common inside the case.

Most of the Bumper speakers I saw around here were single or dual 4 ohm coils. They had the odd model with dual 6ohm coils but not many.....without a meter I would ensure the coils are in series and the drivers in parallel on that amp......since you are using an amplified signal as your source, use the 'high level' inputs on the amp and be careful with the gain control. If the amp stays cool you are probaly better off leaving it wired like that until you get the system in a car....the battery and charger will power it OK until you start drawing heavy current, leaving the speaker impedance high will help with that.

HTH

carpdar

Okay so i made an uh-oh, the subs are SVC. I feel retatted.. But i hooked up one of the 10"s to a single box i had spare and put one of the amps channels on it and it sounds good with my home made boom box via rcas. The amp is also a 2 channel lol. I think this will sound not to shabby in a good ported dual box using both subs and channels.

sunfired

iTrader: (-1)

Is this your amp? if so its only 65wx2 2 channel .Thump TA1001 Car Amp - Product details and features - DealTime

carpdar

yea could rated 250 watt x2 max. Either way the 10"s sounds like they're gonna give if it goes up any more so maybe I'm set..

BigRedGuy

iTrader: (11)

If you're going to use that amp, I would suggest you try bridging 1 of the subs to the amp first....that will keep the amp working as well as it can....a ported box for 1 of those subs would be worth trying.

If you use both subs you will need a stronger amp.....that one cannot be bridged to a 2ohm load and the output at 4ohm stereo will not be satisfactory for you......

HTH

carpdar

so your saying i should combine the left and right channels of my amp into one sub? I found that just one of those 10s in my dual box (with a pillow jammed into the other opening) made for a much better sound when testing on my computer.

bart pyle

iTrader: (2)

HOLLY CRAP!!!!! i mean it CRAP. for god's sake go to a car audio retailer and have them do the install, usually if you buy equipment from the retailer they will install it for you. the investment in better product would save you from blown equipment and being installed by a pro would save you a possible automotive fire!

good luck!