Passive bandpass x-over design for 8" midbass
10-20-2011, 04:16 PM
#31
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 320
Holy hell those are noce drivers. I'm rethinking my Silver Flute 8" as the depth is a real issue and they're only rated for 100W rms while I have 150w/ch to throw at them. If I'm going to re-shape my door panels in order to get them to fit, perhaps I can get better drivers instead and save myself a lot of work...
EDIT- what do you guys (DUKK) think of running subwoofers as mid-bass? I shy'd away from that originally but it seems all the slim-mounts are subs, not midbass.
EDIT- what do you guys (DUKK) think of running subwoofers as mid-bass? I shy'd away from that originally but it seems all the slim-mounts are subs, not midbass.
Last edited by audio1der; 10-21-2011 at 09:47 AM.
11-17-2011, 12:02 AM
#34
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 23
thats not mid bass. mid bass is anywhere from 90hz or 100hz to about 250 hertz. Ask a crossover company like Audio Control and they will tell you this. The chips they make for the bandpass filters of their midbass cross overs designed for "midbass" is in exactly that range - because that is what midbass is.
And good luck trying to pump 200-300 watts rms of midbass between around 125-175 hertz into your component set. i wish you the best of luck with that - but make sure to take some eggs to scramble on the fried component cones.
And good luck trying to pump 200-300 watts rms of midbass between around 125-175 hertz into your component set. i wish you the best of luck with that - but make sure to take some eggs to scramble on the fried component cones.
11-17-2011, 03:06 PM
#36
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 23
My point is component sets are supposed to be crossed over 200 to 250 and up if you are running heavy wattage. These people at audio control are not idiots. They understand the frustrations of car audio midbass lacking. I am not making this up. Do a general search.
I'd ike to know what kind of 6.5 driver you are running to safely handle 300 rms from 90hz and up. Feel free to enlightnen me because I would like to purchase the same pair since they would be stronger than the helix e8ws I am installing. The floor is yours.
I'd ike to know what kind of 6.5 driver you are running to safely handle 300 rms from 90hz and up. Feel free to enlightnen me because I would like to purchase the same pair since they would be stronger than the helix e8ws I am installing. The floor is yours.
11-18-2011, 03:10 PM
#37
Administrator
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 16,855
Well, I told you a couple of pages back 
MTX TC6.0 and then Rockford RFA-64. Both worked fine for me and while I don't listen to it at concert levels all day long, I also don't drive down the highway in second gear..
The day I had to explain to the 'tech guy' at Audio Control how their own 4XS operated was the day I tossed their pricelist.
MTX TC6.0 and then Rockford RFA-64. Both worked fine for me and while I don't listen to it at concert levels all day long, I also don't drive down the highway in second gear..
The day I had to explain to the 'tech guy' at Audio Control how their own 4XS operated was the day I tossed their pricelist.
11-19-2011, 10:36 AM
#39
Administrator
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 16,855
^ Isn't that the truth. Two years ago I had the chance to take what was supposed to be a tech guy job for a distributor. I wanted to take it so I could be for the guys today one of the tech guys that I had 20 years ago when I got started - someone who really knew the equipment and didn't have to leaf through a manual to try to find an answer.
Ultimately it proved out that what they really wanted was a local rep who would also field tech calls. I passed.
Ultimately it proved out that what they really wanted was a local rep who would also field tech calls. I passed.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
kawana
Enclosure Design & Construction Help
2
02-24-2010 10:34 PM
glennersss
Enclosure Design & Construction Help
3
03-25-2009 03:22 AM
