Need "sound" electrical and set-up advice... pardon the pun...
#1
Hey everybody, Happy Ney Year!!
This is my first thread started here at CCA but I've been doing tons of research here. I read about you're local meet yesterday at noon... I would have loved to have come out to see the set-ups, I unfortunately read about the meet at 11:30 and Kitchener is a little bit farther than half hour from me, espically in the snow. I was competing a couple of years ago with my S-10 but haven't been to a comp in a couple of years, can't wait to see some of your set-ups.
Allright... I picked up a bunch of "goodies" for my car prior to christmas and I am currently working them into my set-up. I am upgrading from a mid-level system ( one 12inch hitting 140.8 ), some components will be brought over, however I have a couple of electrical questions I was hoping to get cleared up now while still in the build/design process.
First off - CAR = '99 Acura TL-P
Amps - Concept CC-D1200 will be REMOVED for Concept CC-D2400 , Currently PPI 5440 (5 channel will be upgrading soon).
Subs - one Concept EX-12 will be REMOVED for 2 x Concept PT-15s
Additional Components - Audio Control Four.1 (eq/13v line driver) , PG 1f. Cap,
Mids&highs - 1 x Concept SS-8 , 4 x MBQuart 3.5 , 4 x PG 5.25
More info (possibly too much, but too little info gets poor answers) - Currently a Stock HU, and because of CDR problems with all Stock TL HU, I have a sony 10disk MP3 changer (please don't yell at me, it's temporary and was cheap ). Currently 2gauge wiring, I will be upgrading the wire to 0g. In-line fuse in engine bay, will be upgrading to better fuse holder (can't remember the name of it now). PG fuse distro in trunk, I think I'll keep and use it.
Ok... I am currently making a custom ported box (3/4" MDF) and trunk layout, however I am concerns about my power draw have raised questions. Throught my research on this site, and others, I have found that the CC-D2400 can do a number on the electrical system. So my solutions would be.. please correct me and/or advise anything else you may think would help.
A) get another battery and put it into the trunk layout... I am looking into getting a Turbo Start battery off of Steve(think that was his name)here.. he left his info in another thread but I didn't want to bother him on sunday morning about a battery.
B) Replace the stock battery with a high output battery..... would this be enough? or would I have to ADD one? [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]
C) Get the alternator rewound by Ohio Generators.. I know of other TLs that have done this and got 190amps out of the stock alt. cost was $350 if you supplied your own alt, I can supply the link.
Now in the design process I've come the the point where I lay out my amps, cap, line driver, etc.. I would really like to get some "sound" advice here (pardon the pun, again [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img] ) before I continue with the design process. I would hate to run into serious problems after everything was completed.
I have also heard mixed advice about using caps for SPL competitions.. any opinions? keep it wired up for SQ and then detach for SPL?
Thanks in advance to anyone who is able to help me out here. I am working on my system today and hope to get the box built and start with the trunk layout..
Thanks again...
Patrick
Hope it wasn't too legnthy..
Note: the overall goal is to get the system to competing level. Without sounding too cheap, I know the best solution would be get the alt rewound, and two high output batteries, one for the trunk and one for the engine bay... But which would be enough to start out with? My main concern is "frying" the alternator.
[ January 09, 2005, 10:36 AM: Message edited by: ShowShine ]
This is my first thread started here at CCA but I've been doing tons of research here. I read about you're local meet yesterday at noon... I would have loved to have come out to see the set-ups, I unfortunately read about the meet at 11:30 and Kitchener is a little bit farther than half hour from me, espically in the snow. I was competing a couple of years ago with my S-10 but haven't been to a comp in a couple of years, can't wait to see some of your set-ups.
Allright... I picked up a bunch of "goodies" for my car prior to christmas and I am currently working them into my set-up. I am upgrading from a mid-level system ( one 12inch hitting 140.8 ), some components will be brought over, however I have a couple of electrical questions I was hoping to get cleared up now while still in the build/design process.
First off - CAR = '99 Acura TL-P
Amps - Concept CC-D1200 will be REMOVED for Concept CC-D2400 , Currently PPI 5440 (5 channel will be upgrading soon).
Subs - one Concept EX-12 will be REMOVED for 2 x Concept PT-15s
Additional Components - Audio Control Four.1 (eq/13v line driver) , PG 1f. Cap,
Mids&highs - 1 x Concept SS-8 , 4 x MBQuart 3.5 , 4 x PG 5.25
More info (possibly too much, but too little info gets poor answers) - Currently a Stock HU, and because of CDR problems with all Stock TL HU, I have a sony 10disk MP3 changer (please don't yell at me, it's temporary and was cheap ). Currently 2gauge wiring, I will be upgrading the wire to 0g. In-line fuse in engine bay, will be upgrading to better fuse holder (can't remember the name of it now). PG fuse distro in trunk, I think I'll keep and use it.
Ok... I am currently making a custom ported box (3/4" MDF) and trunk layout, however I am concerns about my power draw have raised questions. Throught my research on this site, and others, I have found that the CC-D2400 can do a number on the electrical system. So my solutions would be.. please correct me and/or advise anything else you may think would help.
A) get another battery and put it into the trunk layout... I am looking into getting a Turbo Start battery off of Steve(think that was his name)here.. he left his info in another thread but I didn't want to bother him on sunday morning about a battery.
B) Replace the stock battery with a high output battery..... would this be enough? or would I have to ADD one? [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]
C) Get the alternator rewound by Ohio Generators.. I know of other TLs that have done this and got 190amps out of the stock alt. cost was $350 if you supplied your own alt, I can supply the link.
Now in the design process I've come the the point where I lay out my amps, cap, line driver, etc.. I would really like to get some "sound" advice here (pardon the pun, again [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img] ) before I continue with the design process. I would hate to run into serious problems after everything was completed.
I have also heard mixed advice about using caps for SPL competitions.. any opinions? keep it wired up for SQ and then detach for SPL?
Thanks in advance to anyone who is able to help me out here. I am working on my system today and hope to get the box built and start with the trunk layout..
Thanks again...
Patrick
Hope it wasn't too legnthy..
Note: the overall goal is to get the system to competing level. Without sounding too cheap, I know the best solution would be get the alt rewound, and two high output batteries, one for the trunk and one for the engine bay... But which would be enough to start out with? My main concern is "frying" the alternator.
[ January 09, 2005, 10:36 AM: Message edited by: ShowShine ]
#3
To be honest I don't actually know the qualifications for each class, I've been looking for a break-down of each class and it's qualifications, however I've only found catagories for random competitions ( ie. 0-160, 161-300, 300-etc.. ) which is obviously catagory not class.
If someone could link me to a page where each class is broken down that would be appreciated, and would also help me answer Hardwrkr's question.
I apologize for the ignorance...
If someone could link me to a page where each class is broken down that would be appreciated, and would also help me answer Hardwrkr's question.
I apologize for the ignorance...
#4
2004 dBDrag rules (being changed for 2005 likely but it gives you a good start as to thinking what you want to do)
http://www.termpro.com/dbdrag/rules/2004/rules04.html
http://www.termpro.com/dbdrag/rules/2004/rules04.html
#5
Thank-You..
After looking through the link it looks like the two catagories that would suit my set-up (if I scrapped the eight inch sub idea, it was for SQ anyway) would be Street Class C and Street Max 1-2.
Now I have more questions though, with addition to my origional electrical q's.
The Street Max 1-2 description didn't specify the size of speaker just the number of speakers and the numbers of amps hooked up, is that correct or did I miss it somewhere? In the Street Class the speaker sizes were obvious, I just didn't see size specs for the Street Max class.
And with those two classes being options which one would you recomend for me to start in? reasons? similar competition?
Thanks Again for your info and answers..
After looking through the link it looks like the two catagories that would suit my set-up (if I scrapped the eight inch sub idea, it was for SQ anyway) would be Street Class C and Street Max 1-2.
Now I have more questions though, with addition to my origional electrical q's.
The Street Max 1-2 description didn't specify the size of speaker just the number of speakers and the numbers of amps hooked up, is that correct or did I miss it somewhere? In the Street Class the speaker sizes were obvious, I just didn't see size specs for the Street Max class.
And with those two classes being options which one would you recomend for me to start in? reasons? similar competition?
Thanks Again for your info and answers..
#6
For advice on the power problems, I'd suggest that if you're planning a 2nd. battery, and /or rewinding the stock alternator, have you considered a separate charging system using a 2nd. alternator instead of your A/C, unless there's an unused pulley on your cranckshaft?
As for stiffening caps I can't see any reason to disconnect them for either SQ or SPL.
As for stiffening caps I can't see any reason to disconnect them for either SQ or SPL.
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