Need a battery suggestion for my system
03-12-2011, 04:58 PM
#11
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 127
Yes, everything runs on 12 volts, technically. But charging systems are typically designed to run at 14.4V. Either way, you shouldn't be drawing too much power, so one good replacement battery should fix the problem, wouldn't hurt to do the big 3 upgrade, since you have the hood open anyway (if you don't know what that is, before you ask, search it).
03-12-2011, 05:28 PM
#12
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 69
Yes, everything runs on 12 volts, technically. But charging systems are typically designed to run at 14.4V. Either way, you shouldn't be drawing too much power, so one good replacement battery should fix the problem, wouldn't hurt to do the big 3 upgrade, since you have the hood open anyway (if you don't know what that is, before you ask, search it).
I also dont have access to my alternator since its hiding somewhere in the bottom.
03-12-2011, 05:45 PM
#13
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 127
No dropping another battery in will not cure your dimming problems. Well it might, but why run two batteries, when one will be sufficient. What I'm saying is if you are going to buy a new battery anyway, just buy a good replacement. If that doesn't fix your problem, try the big 3 upgrade, if that doesn't work, upgrade your alternator before adding a second battery.
03-12-2011, 06:04 PM
#14
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 215
you can also pull the alternator and get it rewound to a higher output....should be alot cheaper than buying a high output unit, also is your power and ground wires the same size, and is the ground a solid ground ie: back to the front batt, and NOT through the body and frame......those things all make huge differences!!
03-12-2011, 07:50 PM
#15
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 519
When running, your car will typically run at 14.4v because that is what the battery charges at. Your alternator will continue to putout 14.4v until its reached its current limit (80-100A) Then the voltage will drop to 12v which is what the battery is. It will stay at 12v until the battery hits its limit. Only at this point will you benefit from multiple batteries. You're probably not going lower then 12v with 500W. Unless your battery is one of those racing, half sized ones.
03-12-2011, 08:35 PM
#18
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 69
Well if it ever gets that serious for me a mechanics gonna do it but before I have to give the big 3 a try first. I just didnt know putting in a sub would be such a pain for my electrical system.
03-12-2011, 08:43 PM
#19
Alternators on modern cars are designed to fit within the stock electrical specs and not much more.
They only give you about 10% play and when you're talking 100 amps that simply doesn't cut it when you start adding power-hungry amplifiers running subs.
They only give you about 10% play and when you're talking 100 amps that simply doesn't cut it when you start adding power-hungry amplifiers running subs.
03-12-2011, 08:50 PM
#20
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 215
i dont remember if u said u have a cap in the mix yet.....they can help in the situations......batcap or something like that......might be another idea......they release power extremely fast and recharge quickly.......might werk!!
