Installer: Tools Required??
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Also if you get a quality crescent wrench, instead of the 'jobsite' bargain brand stuff it makes a world of difference. I mostly used one at home before I had multiple tools sets and didn't want to lug all my tools home every night to work on my Beetle.
#14
Originally posted by Car Trek:
Skewdriver, 7mm, 5/16, and 10mm nut drivers, cordless drill, Torx T-500, Allen keys, good tin snips, test light, multi-meter, drill bits, Wire fish, grommet poker(a piece of steel tubing cut on an angle and sharpened works), parts tray for butts and connectors, Dremel and a good carbide bit, file (1/2 round, and rat-tail), body hammer ( for straightening DIN cages), black marker (for blacking out the edge of the cages)automatic centre punch (great for cleaning out rusty rocker panel screws), slim jim (for when you lock the keys in the car....always roll a window down BEFORE you drive the car in the shop.) Jig saw, router, are nice to have if the shop doesn't. Olfa knife, Snap on pick set, a few cheap small flat blade screwdrivers for adjusting amps....they seem to disappear a lot so don't use your snap on.
Oh yeah....a BIG Yellow Mac rolling cabinet to hold all your tools.
Skewdriver, 7mm, 5/16, and 10mm nut drivers, cordless drill, Torx T-500, Allen keys, good tin snips, test light, multi-meter, drill bits, Wire fish, grommet poker(a piece of steel tubing cut on an angle and sharpened works), parts tray for butts and connectors, Dremel and a good carbide bit, file (1/2 round, and rat-tail), body hammer ( for straightening DIN cages), black marker (for blacking out the edge of the cages)automatic centre punch (great for cleaning out rusty rocker panel screws), slim jim (for when you lock the keys in the car....always roll a window down BEFORE you drive the car in the shop.) Jig saw, router, are nice to have if the shop doesn't. Olfa knife, Snap on pick set, a few cheap small flat blade screwdrivers for adjusting amps....they seem to disappear a lot so don't use your snap on.
Oh yeah....a BIG Yellow Mac rolling cabinet to hold all your tools.
LOL...now that's a kickass answer!
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
# 1/4 drive metric deep and short sockets
# 1/4 drive American deep and short sockets
# 3/8 American sockets
# 3/8 Metric sockets
# Adjustable wrenches
# Allen wrenches Metric and US (from very small to very large)
# Antenna connector crimpers ( for coax connectors)
# Antenna tools 2 and 4 prong
# Assorted Jumper Leads
# Awl (large and very small)
# Battery speaker tester
# BMW 5 sided Allen wrench for radio removal
# C-Clamps
# Car Battery tools
# CDs and Cassettes for testing
# Channel Locks
# Console Covers (cloth to keep console from being scratched)
# Crimpers (serious crimpers only)
# Cutters (assortment)
# Door spring clip remover
# Door panel puller tools (several types)
# Dremmel type grinding tool
# Drill bits
# Ear protection
# Eye Protection
# Fender Covers (to prevent fender scratches)
# Files (flat, round and triangle files)
# First aid kit (bandaids, always have bandaids)
# Flathead regular size
# Flathead small
# Flathead Large
# Fluke Meter (or some kind of VTVM)
# Ford radio removal tool
# Hack saw
# Hammers
# Hook tool
# Hot glue gun
# Long grabber tool
# Makita power screw driver
# Needle nose pliers
# Open end wrenches
# Phillips #2
# Phillips Large
# Phillips #0
# Phillips #1
# Pliers
# Precision measuring devices for very fine measurements
# Punches
# Ratchets and extensions
# Saber saw
# Soldering Iron and solder
# Square for woodworking and box building
# Strippers
# Tape Measure
# Test light
# Test probes
# Test speaker
# Three wing driver (chrysler radio)
# Tin Snips
# Torx set (from very small to very large 6 to 45)
# Under dash light
# Utility knife with sharp blades
# Very short Phillips #2 and #1
# Vise Grips
# X-acto knifes with sharp blades
From the world famous Eddie Runner, and Rivier Oaks Car Stereo.
# 1/4 drive American deep and short sockets
# 3/8 American sockets
# 3/8 Metric sockets
# Adjustable wrenches
# Allen wrenches Metric and US (from very small to very large)
# Antenna connector crimpers ( for coax connectors)
# Antenna tools 2 and 4 prong
# Assorted Jumper Leads
# Awl (large and very small)
# Battery speaker tester
# BMW 5 sided Allen wrench for radio removal
# C-Clamps
# Car Battery tools
# CDs and Cassettes for testing
# Channel Locks
# Console Covers (cloth to keep console from being scratched)
# Crimpers (serious crimpers only)
# Cutters (assortment)
# Door spring clip remover
# Door panel puller tools (several types)
# Dremmel type grinding tool
# Drill bits
# Ear protection
# Eye Protection
# Fender Covers (to prevent fender scratches)
# Files (flat, round and triangle files)
# First aid kit (bandaids, always have bandaids)
# Flathead regular size
# Flathead small
# Flathead Large
# Fluke Meter (or some kind of VTVM)
# Ford radio removal tool
# Hack saw
# Hammers
# Hook tool
# Hot glue gun
# Long grabber tool
# Makita power screw driver
# Needle nose pliers
# Open end wrenches
# Phillips #2
# Phillips Large
# Phillips #0
# Phillips #1
# Pliers
# Precision measuring devices for very fine measurements
# Punches
# Ratchets and extensions
# Saber saw
# Soldering Iron and solder
# Square for woodworking and box building
# Strippers
# Tape Measure
# Test light
# Test probes
# Test speaker
# Three wing driver (chrysler radio)
# Tin Snips
# Torx set (from very small to very large 6 to 45)
# Under dash light
# Utility knife with sharp blades
# Very short Phillips #2 and #1
# Vise Grips
# X-acto knifes with sharp blades
From the world famous Eddie Runner, and Rivier Oaks Car Stereo.
#16
Originally posted by Car Trek:
Skewdriver, 7mm, 5/16, and 10mm nut drivers, cordless drill, Torx T-500, Allen keys, good tin snips, test light,..........
Skewdriver, 7mm, 5/16, and 10mm nut drivers, cordless drill, Torx T-500, Allen keys, good tin snips, test light,..........
Low DCR light bulbs with a clip and needle probe can cause, have caused, and will continue to cause
a lot of EXPEN$IVE damage to modern automotive electronics. Buy the best DMM you can afford. My Fluke 77 has been serving me faithfully and accurately since 1984, or there-about. Also look into a decent LCR (inductance, capacitance, resistance) meter. Invaluable for fine-tuning passive crossover networks, and checking for faulty components, or those prone to drift. (PS caps, etc)
[ May 29, 2005, 06:48 AM: Message edited by: Kevin Catalano ]
#19
nothing wrong with the new test probes out there. dan had this deadly cool one that had a built in circut breaker and you could throw a positive or negative pulse thru it if you wanted. its definatley on my list of wants if the snap on guy ever shows up.
#20
Can't forget the glass stapler either....
Test lights with low DCR are a no-no.
I do however use a Snap On, and a Thexton model (modified to use a high DCR bulb, that both are big time savers.
Having seen my share of blown circuits, I know when to use them, and when to grab the multi-meter...However, checking fuses, tripping relays, and activating door locks all are easier and quicker with a light. It does however require a bit more intuition and experience to prevent damage, and is no longer taught as the "correct" way. Certainly safer to restrict all testing to a multimeter, especially with rookies.
Test lights with low DCR are a no-no.
I do however use a Snap On, and a Thexton model (modified to use a high DCR bulb, that both are big time savers.
Having seen my share of blown circuits, I know when to use them, and when to grab the multi-meter...However, checking fuses, tripping relays, and activating door locks all are easier and quicker with a light. It does however require a bit more intuition and experience to prevent damage, and is no longer taught as the "correct" way. Certainly safer to restrict all testing to a multimeter, especially with rookies.