Harness Wiring Procedure
#11
^ I dont think wire nuts are a good idea in any vibration rich environment. They can be spun on and off by vibration as well as finger pressure. DWVW has given the correct answer.
The elecrical tape, and its adhesive, are affected by the climate it is usd in (soft and squishy in the Summer and hard and brittle in the winter). Yes I have used it (with rubber tape) in some automotive applications but usually for short term 'mock ups'.
The elecrical tape, and its adhesive, are affected by the climate it is usd in (soft and squishy in the Summer and hard and brittle in the winter). Yes I have used it (with rubber tape) in some automotive applications but usually for short term 'mock ups'.
#12
Dwvw and johnvroom hit it right on the ball, marrets are bad, i don't even feel safe half the time using them at home when i am sliding a light fixture back into position! Butts are #1 crimp them on and give each end a solid tug, if they are crimped properly there is no way they will let go under your dash! Unless you are like a customer i once had who swore by solder because he said he had the wires fall out from under his dash and the butts he put on let go when he caught his feet in the wires hahaha!
#15
Well, my documented experience shows that most old school and long-time-on-the-scene installers that rarely have time to work on their own cars USUALLY use the twist and tape method for their own vehicles, but will never admit to it
Is it unsafe and bad. Yes. Therefore I do not recommend you do it. Solder and put heat shrink over it using a hair dryer. Takes about 10 seconds longer but way safer. Better to be safe then sorry.......... watching your ride on the side of the road burning to the ground because something shorted out and flamed.
As for the old guys kickin' it............. no comment. You should see my truck......... in it's current testing state [img]graemlins/2xblown.gif[/img]
Is it unsafe and bad. Yes. Therefore I do not recommend you do it. Solder and put heat shrink over it using a hair dryer. Takes about 10 seconds longer but way safer. Better to be safe then sorry.......... watching your ride on the side of the road burning to the ground because something shorted out and flamed.
As for the old guys kickin' it............. no comment. You should see my truck......... in it's current testing state [img]graemlins/2xblown.gif[/img]
#18
Originally posted by DWVW:
Well, those crappy Canadian tire crimping tools can be to blame for bad crimp <A TITLE="Click for more information about job" STYLE="text-decoration: none; border-bottom: medium solid green;" HREF="http://search.targetwords.com/u.search?x=5977|1||||job|AA1VDw">job</A>s. I have seen some weak crimps and it's always the fault of the tool IMO. Get a good set of Klein crimpers and you can hang off the crimps.
Well, those crappy Canadian tire crimping tools can be to blame for bad crimp <A TITLE="Click for more information about job" STYLE="text-decoration: none; border-bottom: medium solid green;" HREF="http://search.targetwords.com/u.search?x=5977|1||||job|AA1VDw">job</A>s. I have seen some weak crimps and it's always the fault of the tool IMO. Get a good set of Klein crimpers and you can hang off the crimps.
#20
Originally posted by PEI330Ci:
^^^^Thats funny...I twist and tape all my 1/0 awg power wire too....
...that chrome fire extinguisher is looking good now on the drivers A-pillar....
^^^^Thats funny...I twist and tape all my 1/0 awg power wire too....
...that chrome fire extinguisher is looking good now on the drivers A-pillar....
Fuzz: I would go with butt connectors, or if you have a little experience with a soldering iron, the heatshrink/soldering option will work even better. Butt connectors cost next to nothing, and you'll sleep easier knowing you did it safely. A crimping tool will only cost you a few dollars, and you will likely find a use for it again down the road.
[ February 28, 2004, 09:06 AM: Message edited by: lemonlime ]