zarx

As a side note, anybody have bad luck using "waxed" resin as opposed to "unwaxed". Apparently waxed is not supposed to be used when layer fiberglass. I have a litre of it so if it works then I want to use it.
Just waiting for the resin to cure now for my final test.

SUX 2BU

iTrader: (1)

You can also drill some small holes in the panel to let the resin seep through. Once hardened, it sort of acts like a rivet would. Good luck in your tests.

zarx

Yea, but I want to leave the other side of the plastic untouched. Putting screws through, staples or even little holes will obviously mark the other side and that isn't an option. That's the tricky part of what I am trying to do. I want to stretch glass from a cutout in the plastic and then paint and finish the fibreglass to appear to be part of the original door panel without redoing the rest of it.

Question tho: I am trying the epoxy to see if it holds the fibreglass mold well. I am wondering if maybe there is another adhesive that I should try that might work better. Perhaps silicon, or even some of that PL Premium or PL 9000 stuff that is used for industrial purposes.

[ June 30, 2005, 02:31 PM: Message edited by: zarx ]

Starterwiz

There's a special resin for repairing plastic bumpers that will stick to plastic...SMC I think it's called, but I could be wrong. Check out a local body shop supply house. There's also a spray on adhesion promoter to counteract the mould release agents in the plastic. I've found that waxed resin releases better when making moulds, so definately avoid that.

Overlapping the glassed piece on the plastic cut-out, with some flat head bolts glassed in, and then secure them from behind with nuts is probably your best bet. (I grind the heads down til they're paper thin)