Component Speaker Install
06-29-2004, 12:49 PM
#1
2000 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,026
I picked up a pair of Polk EX3 5.25" comps and I have a few installation questions.
Kick panels are not an option for 3 reasons:
(1) The car is a tercel and there is no room even if I cut into the metal.
(2) I am 6'2" so I don't want to sacrifice the room.
(3) I don't want to bother with fibre glass.
Here are my Questions:
1. I will be mounting the mid-woofer in the factory door location. What should I do to the door to get the best possible sound from the speaker?
2. Will XTC foam baffles mess with the mid-bass response of the speaker?
3. Tweeter mounting: The sky is the limit.
Any suggestions for a good location?
I read that the tweeter needs to be installed 2" or less from the midbass, or 7" or more from the mid-bass. Is this legit? What will disobeying this effect? The blending or absolute phase of the speaker?
Thanks for the help.
(For those who are curious, I plan to mount the Crossover behind the factory kick panel.)
Kick panels are not an option for 3 reasons:
(1) The car is a tercel and there is no room even if I cut into the metal.
(2) I am 6'2" so I don't want to sacrifice the room.
(3) I don't want to bother with fibre glass.
Here are my Questions:
1. I will be mounting the mid-woofer in the factory door location. What should I do to the door to get the best possible sound from the speaker?
2. Will XTC foam baffles mess with the mid-bass response of the speaker?
3. Tweeter mounting: The sky is the limit.
Any suggestions for a good location?
I read that the tweeter needs to be installed 2" or less from the midbass, or 7" or more from the mid-bass. Is this legit? What will disobeying this effect? The blending or absolute phase of the speaker?
Thanks for the help.
(For those who are curious, I plan to mount the Crossover behind the factory kick panel.)
06-29-2004, 01:51 PM
#3
Here are my Questions:
1. I will be mounting the mid-woofer in the factory door location. What should I do to the door to get the best possible sound from the speaker?
- I would use Brown Bread on the door and especially where the woofer is mounted to create a seal and restore mid bass to your system.
2. Will XTC foam baffles mess with the mid-bass response of the speaker?
- Cut them in half so you gain the best of both worlds: Protect the driver from water coming down throught the window jam and by having it "open" on the bottom half you limit loss of bass.
3. Tweeter mounting: The sky is the limit.
Any suggestions for a good location?
I read that the tweeter needs to be installed 2" or less from the midbass, or 7" or more from the mid-bass. Is this legit? What will disobeying this effect? The blending or absolute phase of the speaker?
- Both methods have their merits -- it's nice to have tweeters at ear level; however, a windshield can "smear" the image (some guys like this). Having a tweeter close to the mid bass driver helps with point source integration, but you could also modify the crossover to fix time alignment.
1. I will be mounting the mid-woofer in the factory door location. What should I do to the door to get the best possible sound from the speaker?
- I would use Brown Bread on the door and especially where the woofer is mounted to create a seal and restore mid bass to your system.
2. Will XTC foam baffles mess with the mid-bass response of the speaker?
- Cut them in half so you gain the best of both worlds: Protect the driver from water coming down throught the window jam and by having it "open" on the bottom half you limit loss of bass.
3. Tweeter mounting: The sky is the limit.
Any suggestions for a good location?
I read that the tweeter needs to be installed 2" or less from the midbass, or 7" or more from the mid-bass. Is this legit? What will disobeying this effect? The blending or absolute phase of the speaker?
- Both methods have their merits -- it's nice to have tweeters at ear level; however, a windshield can "smear" the image (some guys like this). Having a tweeter close to the mid bass driver helps with point source integration, but you could also modify the crossover to fix time alignment.
06-29-2004, 05:52 PM
#5
2000 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,026
Originally posted by defro:
what kind of vehicle?
what kind of vehicle?
Originally posted by maltesechicken:
(1) The car is a tercel and there is no room even if I cut into the metal.
(1) The car is a tercel and there is no room even if I cut into the metal.
1997 Toyota Tercel CE
5 spd, 4 door Green with beige interior.
Mike, thanks for your reply.
I thought about cutting the XTC baffles, but wasn't sure if that was a good idea, thanks.
When applying sound deadener to the door, how do you reattach the door panel? Will the original plugs and grommets be long enough? Or will the sound deadener compress enough so I can just throw the panel back on?
As for the tweeter mounting. I played with the tweeters in the car this afternoon and I have decided they will be located somewhere low. I like to keep things looking stock, give theives no reason to give my car a second look. There are no nice places I can mount them high. So I will likely mount the tweeters in the door panel just infront of the mid-bass, or in the kick panel. I am hesitant about the kick panel because that is roughly 6" from the mid bass
06-29-2004, 06:15 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
PEI330 has a nice post a few weeks back about how he deadened his doors; VERY thorough.
'smearing', I think he is saying, refers to locating the tweeter by ear, not distorting the sound. Shooting off the windshield can sometimes, effectively, make the sound come from a wider area than the piston of the tweeter.
I tried to make a drawing in Paint, but it sucked
'smearing', I think he is saying, refers to locating the tweeter by ear, not distorting the sound. Shooting off the windshield can sometimes, effectively, make the sound come from a wider area than the piston of the tweeter.
I tried to make a drawing in Paint, but it sucked
06-29-2004, 08:54 PM
#7
Yankee
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,599
^
with a car reflective surfaces can be the enemy. The sound from a tweeter should generally be direct from the tweeter to your ears. By hitting the windshield the sound waves reflect about a millisecond or so after the direct sound hits your ears, by doing this it is like smearing an image in a painting the timing of the HF is just a little wrong and it can be pleasant or just wrong sounding.
I don’t know what the term authentic was intended to mean but a reflection is just that a portion of the original sound that happens to hit the windshield at a given angle and reflect back to your ears. Remember the windshield while symmetrical is not linear in its sonic performance due to complex curvatures. (Many have used reflected sound in car audio but it is a challenge to do it correctly)
I heard that any sound reflected off a windshield is as authentic as the soudn from the speaker itself? Mike, what do you mean "smear"?
I don’t know what the term authentic was intended to mean but a reflection is just that a portion of the original sound that happens to hit the windshield at a given angle and reflect back to your ears. Remember the windshield while symmetrical is not linear in its sonic performance due to complex curvatures. (Many have used reflected sound in car audio but it is a challenge to do it correctly)
06-29-2004, 11:09 PM
#8
'smearing', I think he is saying, refers to locating the tweeter by ear, not distorting the sound. Shooting off the windshield can sometimes, effectively, make the sound come from a wider area than the piston of the tweeter.
[/QB][/QUOTE]
-- Thanks for the grammer lession, if I return to teaching English again, I will make sure I consult with you first.
Let us see what the Webster's Collegiate Dictionary has to say:
Smear:
b. "to over a surface"
c. "to obliterate, obscure, blur, blend, wipe out or defeat by or as if by smearing"
b. -- kind of like ing the sound from a tweeter over the whole glass area.
c. -- some people like to have treble out; however, other prefer to hear a "point source".
-- to simplify this for you, think of it this way -- some muscians on a stage are on the right, left or centre of a stage AND varying degrees of front stage to back stage.
-- Chesky records has a wonderful sample disk that contains a track of Brazilian Dancers that start from left centre stage, approach the listener, dance around the primary listening position (when your speakers are set up correctly) and then exit to the right seemingly 20ft ahead of you. I have heard this track work on most good home audio systems and some car audio systems.
John Vroom -- once again YOUR comments are both concise and informed -- it is with great pleasure that I view your posts.
[/QB][/QUOTE]
-- Thanks for the grammer lession, if I return to teaching English again, I will make sure I consult with you first.
Let us see what the Webster's Collegiate Dictionary has to say:
Smear:
b. "to over a surface"
c. "to obliterate, obscure, blur, blend, wipe out or defeat by or as if by smearing"
b. -- kind of like ing the sound from a tweeter over the whole glass area.
c. -- some people like to have treble out; however, other prefer to hear a "point source".
-- to simplify this for you, think of it this way -- some muscians on a stage are on the right, left or centre of a stage AND varying degrees of front stage to back stage.
-- Chesky records has a wonderful sample disk that contains a track of Brazilian Dancers that start from left centre stage, approach the listener, dance around the primary listening position (when your speakers are set up correctly) and then exit to the right seemingly 20ft ahead of you. I have heard this track work on most good home audio systems and some car audio systems.
John Vroom -- once again YOUR comments are both concise and informed -- it is with great pleasure that I view your posts.
06-29-2004, 11:13 PM
#9
"When applying sound deadener to the door, how do you reattach the door panel? Will the original plugs and grommets be long enough? Or will the sound deadener compress enough so I can just throw the panel back on?"
-- quite honestly, it should not be a problem -- just remember not to block the holes where the plugs and grommets go.
As for the tweeter mounting. I played with the tweeters in the car this afternoon and I have decided they will be located somewhere low. I like to keep things looking stock, give theives no reason to give my car a second look. There are no nice places I can mount them high. So I will likely mount the tweeters in the door panel just infront of the mid-bass, or in the kick panel. I am hesitant about the kick panel because that is roughly 6" from the mid bass [/QB][/QUOTE]
-- Quite honestly, I think one's personal preference is more important that what is "right" or "wrong" -- I have the same opinion when it comes to rear speakers for home theatre -- what sounds best to you is the best for you.
-- quite honestly, it should not be a problem -- just remember not to block the holes where the plugs and grommets go.
As for the tweeter mounting. I played with the tweeters in the car this afternoon and I have decided they will be located somewhere low. I like to keep things looking stock, give theives no reason to give my car a second look. There are no nice places I can mount them high. So I will likely mount the tweeters in the door panel just infront of the mid-bass, or in the kick panel. I am hesitant about the kick panel because that is roughly 6" from the mid bass [/QB][/QUOTE]
-- Quite honestly, I think one's personal preference is more important that what is "right" or "wrong" -- I have the same opinion when it comes to rear speakers for home theatre -- what sounds best to you is the best for you.
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