Capacitor
11-24-2003, 08:40 AM
#11
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,783
SHWACK...I like that. Me too [img]graemlins/headbang.gif[/img]
Did anybody actually read the amplifier manual BEFORE installing the power system?
Didn't think so. [img]smile.gif[/img]
LBKC, that's one heck of a "heating" system ya got there. I bet it's nice and warm in the winter
Did anybody actually read the amplifier manual BEFORE installing the power system?
Didn't think so. [img]smile.gif[/img]
LBKC, that's one heck of a "heating" system ya got there. I bet it's nice and warm in the winter
11-24-2003, 02:34 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Let me ask this: hypothetical system draws 100amps at full boot. Car has a 200amp alternator and car and system are wired all over with 00ga wire so no wire losses.
Is a capacitor completely useless here?
Will there be any potential for headlight dimming?
Please validate your answers with an explanation.
Is a capacitor completely useless here?
Will there be any potential for headlight dimming?
Please validate your answers with an explanation.
11-25-2003, 02:08 PM
#14
2000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,026
I will humour you Dukk.
Before I start, I would like to set the record straight that I do not konw much about Capacitors so this will be all assumptions based on other eletrical experiences I have.
Any head light dimming in the above scenario: NO. The cap will not make a lick of a difference.
1st, the system will not be able consistently take the 100 amps unless it is a test tone.
2nd - even at idle (if the alt can actually put out 200 amps) the alt should be able to handle pushing around 100.
3rd - There will be no loss in the wiring as already mentioned.
My Personal take on Caps - they store the power so the system won't be taking burst of energy. Essentially the cap is gradually taking the power instead of in spurts.
What this means is that perhaps a cap might reduce head light dimming, but the only reason that it reduces dimming is because it is ing the voltage loss. But it does this by giving you a constant, not as noticeable dim that is always there. While if your electrical system was up to snuff, it would be brighter than with a cap because all the cap does is smooth out the peaks, making everything a little bit dimmer.
My theorhetical $0.02.
Lets get the conversation moving!
Before I start, I would like to set the record straight that I do not konw much about Capacitors so this will be all assumptions based on other eletrical experiences I have.
Any head light dimming in the above scenario: NO. The cap will not make a lick of a difference.
1st, the system will not be able consistently take the 100 amps unless it is a test tone.
2nd - even at idle (if the alt can actually put out 200 amps) the alt should be able to handle pushing around 100.
3rd - There will be no loss in the wiring as already mentioned.
My Personal take on Caps - they store the power so the system won't be taking burst of energy. Essentially the cap is gradually taking the power instead of in spurts.
What this means is that perhaps a cap might reduce head light dimming, but the only reason that it reduces dimming is because it is ing the voltage loss. But it does this by giving you a constant, not as noticeable dim that is always there. While if your electrical system was up to snuff, it would be brighter than with a cap because all the cap does is smooth out the peaks, making everything a little bit dimmer.
My theorhetical $0.02.
Lets get the conversation moving!
11-25-2003, 04:32 PM
#15
Good answer maltesechicken you golden toqued [img]graemlins/post.gif[/img]
OK I'll play devil's advocate.
Yes dimming is possible. Even though theoretically the system can only draw 100 amps which is lower than the 200 amps from the alt; but the system needs those amps very quickly. The car electrcal system isn't designed to provide peaks like that. The battery isn't as fast as the cap and so the cap will eliminate dimming.
Also, mc's scenario did not take into account the car amp draw. You could have the lights, wipers, ac, and the windows going up and down at the same time while honking the horn to the beat. [img]graemlins/freak.gif[/img]
I know I'm probably way off here but it's another suggestion.
Gene.
OK I'll play devil's advocate.
Yes dimming is possible. Even though theoretically the system can only draw 100 amps which is lower than the 200 amps from the alt; but the system needs those amps very quickly. The car electrcal system isn't designed to provide peaks like that. The battery isn't as fast as the cap and so the cap will eliminate dimming.
Also, mc's scenario did not take into account the car amp draw. You could have the lights, wipers, ac, and the windows going up and down at the same time while honking the horn to the beat. [img]graemlins/freak.gif[/img]
I know I'm probably way off here but it's another suggestion.
Gene.
11-26-2003, 08:32 AM
#16
1000 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,783
First let me say that I don't experience headlight dimming. My headlights are HIDs, or otherwise known as Zenons. They have a ballast similar to a flourescent light, except it puts out higher voltages to "light up" the gas in my bulbs.
My interior lights are the normal type though, and they DO dim at high volumes. My current draw is somewhere around 190 Amps continous at full volume.(peaks are nearly double) As listed above, I have a pretty good electrical system. But, I have a stock alternator. I'll be sure to post the results of my Iraggi alternator install.
As for the original topic that started this thread.
Ahem....Put the capacitor as close to the amplifier + terminal as space allows. Running the capactor before the fuse block is adding a small bottle-neck to the end user, your amp. Have a look at a fuse, it doesn't have a huge amount of material between the input and output sides. It's not designed to allow current an easy path through, it's designed to heat up as current increases and eventually melt. So fuseblocks add a tiny amount of resistance to your power system. Thats the theory anyway.
I'd try what others have suggested first if the cap isn't doing the job of "flattening out" the voltage spikes and drops in you powersystem; the big 3. It never hurts to optimize those. (except you wallet)
Dukk, are you starting another controversy? [img]tongue.gif[/img]
I haven't got the ***** to answer, but the others have posted well thought out answers. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
(I'm still waiting for Dave's amp test to hit print)
Adam
My interior lights are the normal type though, and they DO dim at high volumes. My current draw is somewhere around 190 Amps continous at full volume.(peaks are nearly double) As listed above, I have a pretty good electrical system. But, I have a stock alternator. I'll be sure to post the results of my Iraggi alternator install.
As for the original topic that started this thread.
Ahem....Put the capacitor as close to the amplifier + terminal as space allows. Running the capactor before the fuse block is adding a small bottle-neck to the end user, your amp. Have a look at a fuse, it doesn't have a huge amount of material between the input and output sides. It's not designed to allow current an easy path through, it's designed to heat up as current increases and eventually melt. So fuseblocks add a tiny amount of resistance to your power system. Thats the theory anyway.
I'd try what others have suggested first if the cap isn't doing the job of "flattening out" the voltage spikes and drops in you powersystem; the big 3. It never hurts to optimize those. (except you wallet)
Dukk, are you starting another controversy? [img]tongue.gif[/img]
I haven't got the ***** to answer, but the others have posted well thought out answers. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
(I'm still waiting for Dave's amp test to hit print)
Adam
11-26-2003, 04:36 PM
#18
Don't get discouraged yet Dukk [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
I think VIPeR's question was answered pretty well, so your scenario is up and there's been a couple sides of the coin tossed on it.
We need a little hint or direction to what you think about this. It may help keep the discussion going.
Gene
I think VIPeR's question was answered pretty well, so your scenario is up and there's been a couple sides of the coin tossed on it.
We need a little hint or direction to what you think about this. It may help keep the discussion going.
Gene
11-26-2003, 06:09 PM
#20
Very good then.
So again it must be due to the speed of the discharge of the cap compared to the battery/alt system. The cap helps buffer the car system so there is no sudden drain that causes dimming. Regardless of the abundant supply from the 200amp alt.
Any support? Other ideas?
Gene
So again it must be due to the speed of the discharge of the cap compared to the battery/alt system. The cap helps buffer the car system so there is no sudden drain that causes dimming. Regardless of the abundant supply from the 200amp alt.
Any support? Other ideas?
Gene
