VIPeR

Ok i currently have it installed after the Distribution block so then the other terminal on the DB goes to my amps, But im still getting light flicker. The cap is charged it reads 14V.

Now the guy at the store said i have to but it before the Distribution block but personally i dont think that matter

So what did i do wrong? whats the best way to wire this?

Thanks in advance

ManHaTTaN

Best advice get a deep cycle battor upgrade alt.

Read this theard about caps.
http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/u...c;f=5;t=007273

Mini Steve

Well more personal experiance. I'm still new at this but here it goes. I had started with factory alt,batt, and no cap. I had first done the batt. to an yellow top much better reserve better voltage regulation. Next was the cap not much diferance but it does seem to have much crisper and defined punch. My voltage still bounces a little but sounds much better and much louder and longer. The alt. is next I'll have to rework the Mini's factory one or upgraid. Now for wireing, I would go from the batt. to the cap, then to the dist. block so the sistem as an hole is running through it. In my mind and in my past experiance it works. Good luck

Hardwrkr

iTrader: (5)

Upgrading the "big 3" wires under the hood worked well for me also.
A cap isn't a sure fix for dimming lights.

Number 2

iTrader: (1)

A cap solved my headlight problems. It wasn't an big problem, but who wants to seeing that on the road when they are driving at night. It's just as important to have a good heavy ground under the hood, good grounding for your amps and car, and the same gauge wire from the batt to the car. Make sure all connentions are good: Crimp connectors tightly, use heat shrink on underhood connections. You want your install to last as long as the gear [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]

tylertime

i've got my cap installed before the distro block.. i hear what youre saying about it not mattering but it may...path of least resistance right?? so that extra little wire and through the cap itself may be limiting the "juice" going into the cap and then into the amp when it hits hard!

just a thought

Team_Obsession

You SQ guys don't know what dimming is, lol [img]tongue.gif[/img] jk [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]

PEI330Ci

For some strange reason, people in car audio go about things differently than logic suggests.

Your problem stems from a drop in voltage caused by current draw from you amp(s). The current draw of your car's electrical system combined with your stereo system is going beyond what your alternator can provide.

The result is that your battery steps in to provide the needed current, but at a lower voltage than your alternator.(battery-12.8v,alternator-14.4v)

The real problem here is that your alternator can't keep up to demand.

Installing a better battery, and upgrading your power wiring is always nice to do. But keep in mind that they don't solve your problem unless THEY ARE the problem.

That said, I have a stock alternator, 2 yellow tops and 2 caps. I'm installing a high output alternator soon. Live and learn.

Adam

Hardwrkr

iTrader: (5)

^^^^^^Upgrading the wiring under the hood will help you get all you can from the stock charging system (and get the vehicle primed for a bigger alt if need be).

Loud Brown Kicker Colt

iTrader: (1)

a 140 amp(hehe,yeah..right)alternator ,cap ,a shwack of 1/0 ,and a pc1700 battery, and i still get headlight dimming....it may possibly be that 350 amps of draw my amps have [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img] ...i need to make an idle controller to speed up the motor and that will fix it [img]graemlins/headbang.gif[/img] i may get worse when i add the ater 3 amps to it good luck in evicting elvis from your ride