mayhem

iTrader: (1)

thanks for all the advice guys but one more question. if i use 0ga wirer, can i use welding wire for example rather than that expensive street wire? 0-ga is really expensive.

[ August 16, 2005, 07:33 AM: Message edited by: mayhem ]

mayhem

iTrader: (1)

no, but larger ga wire allows current to flow (better), less resistance, less heat. i see what your saying but i`m only passing on info that was given to me. big three i`m told is the first upgrade done before you go with a high output alternator right?

BigBubba

^x2

GrizZz

no, but larger ga wire allows current to flow (better), less resistance, less heat. i see what your saying but i`m only passing on info that was given to me. big three i`m told is the first upgrade done before you go with a high output alternator right? </font>[/QUOTE]Yes, 0 is fine. Doing cabling before an alt upgrade is a good idea for sure, it's relatively cheap and fun to do. With proper cabling here & there, you can get your stock alternator to last you longer than you thought.

I did. I'm running 2Kw in my van & have so for over a year, regularly make the alternator send over 50 amps to the rear, and again, have so for over a year, in a high-mileage work van, stock 105 amp alternator w/ a small Mustang/Cougar pulley to speed it up for better output at idle speeds. Not original, but is still just a stock 105 CS130D alternator. If it dies before I get rid of this van, I'll probably bolt in a 140 amp, since it doesn't cost me much more.

I ran 2ga. welding cable from the alt to battery, to solenoid switch, to rear battery, to junction block. Also ran new grounds, front bat to frame, and front bat to alternator bracket, continues to tranny bolt, continues to frame at rear, continues to rear battery & junction block. 2 is enough, I'll probably be replacing this vehicle in the next year (it has 400,000km's) or so, and will wire the new one with 2/0ga, so I can get more/bigger amps that require a custom alternator.

So ya, if ya like tinkering yourself, start adding cable here & there. You don't have to do it all at once, if you do it a piece at a time you can observe the benefits that each piece makes. It's truley amazing how just one cable in the "right place" can make such a difference.

Good luck, have fun!

Xiph0id

iTrader: (1)

Instead of asking questions why don't you answer to which you are obviously aware of.

Or how about I ask you.

Is having a 0ga charge lead going to make you stock alternator make LESS current?

Smarty pants....

X

mayhem

iTrader: (1)

Instead of asking questions why don't you answer to which you are obviously aware of.

Or how about I ask you.

Is having a 0ga charge lead going to make you stock alternator make LESS current?

good one but he makes a point.
Smarty pants....

X </font>[/QUOTE]

mayhem

iTrader: (1)

there is always a difference of opinion on these forums.

GrizZz

Nuh-uh. I've added cabling to many cars and had instant drastic improvements. Cars' stock wiring just isn't designed for the kind of power stereo needs.

Mind you, these were cars that were here because someone installed big stereo equipment and then the owner was running into voltage problems at red lights and whatnot.

However, my own van, not using SPL meters but just listening to the SQ of it all and measuring voltage fluctuations, adding decent cabling made a huge difference. You could instantly hear the cleaner, tighter bass out of my sub. It had a drastic effect on the alternator's ability to keep the voltage smooth. This was before I got into the big Orion gear, when my total output wattage was still under 600w, and my sub wattage was only 300. AVR the system back then, and it was only drawing 20 amps, 25 when cranked "full tilt". Now, it draws 80-100 amps for music.

If you're gonna start adding equipment to any vehicle, adding a few cables first is cheap, easy, and will save you troubles "down the road".