Big 3 with factory dual batterys?
11-08-2005, 06:13 PM
#1
I have been doing the big 3 as recomended by the fine people here and have a question, my truck is a dodge diesel that came with duel batts and wondered if I can just run from the alt to the batt on the pass side as its allot closer? Also the power comes out from the alt to a little box thingy with a few other wires comming and going whats that for? is it ok to go strait to the battery?
Thanks
Thanks
11-08-2005, 06:34 PM
#2
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 870
You should really have a look at the charging schematic for your truck. I'm sure if you ask nicely, your local dealer could hook you up in front of their monitor, or better yet, get a print out.
If it's just a straight parallel hook up, you'd be OK....if there's any sort of isolation, it will need to be accounted for.
Grizz has the most posts regarding charging and batteries here.
If it's just a straight parallel hook up, you'd be OK....if there's any sort of isolation, it will need to be accounted for.
Grizz has the most posts regarding charging and batteries here.
11-08-2005, 06:40 PM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
not sure on your newer truck, but on mine the alternator goes to a fuse/relay box then to the battery if I remember right the alternator output is fused inside that box before going to the battery
running a wire to the battery directly would bypass that fuse .......
running a wire to the battery directly would bypass that fuse .......
11-08-2005, 07:18 PM
#4
Its a 98 so Im not sure [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]
Would your 99 be the same? I dont know if that box is a fuse or not its bolted to the side ot the alt and the wire from the back goes into it and then splits into 2 out. Its about 2x1x.5"
Would your 99 be the same? I dont know if that box is a fuse or not its bolted to the side ot the alt and the wire from the back goes into it and then splits into 2 out. Its about 2x1x.5"
11-08-2005, 07:51 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
you got twins .......you lucky bastard [img]graemlins/bow.gif[/img] ......I'm jelous
you never know the IP might last forever .... I'm at 230,000 so far on an original IP and it's had the wire tapped for the last 100,000 .....
but yeah I'll check my shop manual and get back to you, mine's actually an early 99 built nov 98 so it's probably the same as yours
you never know the IP might last forever .... I'm at 230,000 so far on an original IP and it's had the wire tapped for the last 100,000 .....
but yeah I'll check my shop manual and get back to you, mine's actually an early 99 built nov 98 so it's probably the same as yours
11-08-2005, 11:25 PM
#9
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 756
Yes, your batteries are running parallel, so you can safely hook up to either battery. The junction box you speak of us is most likely just that, a junction box.
So, without actually seeing your truck, I'd do one of two things:
Either run new positive cables from the alternator to BOTH batteries (yes, two full runs from the alt)... EDIT: You do this because you're trying to improve things with a Big3 upgrade, right? Run the extra cable, it's not really necessary, but it couldn't hurt, and it just might improve things. And it'll look cooler too...
Or, if that won't work because of the junction block (It should work, can't think of any reason why it wouldn't), then you'd have to get a little more detailed... Run new cable from alt to JB, and two cable from JB to each battery. The existing lines off the alternator to that JB may have fusible links in them, so you may be disabling fusing, use caution. The JB is probably connecting the vehicle's main fuse block as well, so don't be removing any cables off of it.
If in doubt, let someone that knows peak under the hood and tell ya what to do... I've been under the hoods of many of these trucks, but I can't picture it in my head (not enough coffee?
) If I could see that JB setup, I'd probably be able to tell you what it's doing exactly... got a Digicam?
[ November 09, 2005, 12:36 AM: Message edited by: GrizZz ]
So, without actually seeing your truck, I'd do one of two things:
Either run new positive cables from the alternator to BOTH batteries (yes, two full runs from the alt)... EDIT: You do this because you're trying to improve things with a Big3 upgrade, right? Run the extra cable, it's not really necessary, but it couldn't hurt, and it just might improve things. And it'll look cooler too...
Or, if that won't work because of the junction block (It should work, can't think of any reason why it wouldn't), then you'd have to get a little more detailed... Run new cable from alt to JB, and two cable from JB to each battery. The existing lines off the alternator to that JB may have fusible links in them, so you may be disabling fusing, use caution. The JB is probably connecting the vehicle's main fuse block as well, so don't be removing any cables off of it.
If in doubt, let someone that knows peak under the hood and tell ya what to do... I've been under the hoods of many of these trucks, but I can't picture it in my head (not enough coffee?
) If I could see that JB setup, I'd probably be able to tell you what it's doing exactly... got a Digicam?[ November 09, 2005, 12:36 AM: Message edited by: GrizZz ]
11-09-2005, 09:46 AM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
ok just got up, but from the diagram there is a black wire running from the alternator to the power distribution center (black box on drivers wheel well) it goes into a 140 amp fuse in there (marked gen)it leaves the fues as a red wire and into the battery on the drivers side (main batt) from the main batt + there is a red wire going across the top of the rad to the aux battery on the pass side.
I'll have a shower and go out and look under my hood and maybe snap a few pics
personally I'd run a good sized ground from each batt to the frame
another + wire from the main to aux vattery (it's 2 guage already though)
than a paralelll wire from the alternator output to the main batt with a 140 amp fuse on it as well
and of course a ground from the alt body to the frame
that is if you feel you need it [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]
I'm running 2 rubi 702's in the truck , one running 4 ohms mono and one running 4 ohms stereo, so 1000 watts of class a/b and have absolutly no dimming of the lights or any problems
I'll have a shower and go out and look under my hood and maybe snap a few pics
personally I'd run a good sized ground from each batt to the frame
another + wire from the main to aux vattery (it's 2 guage already though)
than a paralelll wire from the alternator output to the main batt with a 140 amp fuse on it as well
and of course a ground from the alt body to the frame
that is if you feel you need it [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]
I'm running 2 rubi 702's in the truck , one running 4 ohms mono and one running 4 ohms stereo, so 1000 watts of class a/b and have absolutly no dimming of the lights or any problems
