kristy_1117@hot

here the old pos

Brad-S.A.

iTrader: (35)

You are going to need something that has 8ohm SVC or 4Ohm DVC so you can run your amp at maximum potencial. 4 Ohm mono.

Obsidian

iTrader: (4)

ahh, those subs
Ive had those in 12" before, they were awesome sounding subs to be honest. However my 12's didnt last too incredibly long. My buddy also cooked a coil in a 12" he had off 300 watts in about 2 weeks.

If you have approx. 500 watts RMS on that amp, You might want to do some research into Phoenix Gold Octane R's. I had a pair of 12" octane R's in a sealed enclosure running off an 800 watt sony amp for almost 6 months a couple years ago. They were great subs for the money and didnt need alot of power. Not to mention I abused them in ways subwoofers shouldnt be abused and they never overheated, didnt distort untill really pushed hard, and they looked pretty cool with the LED lights

bumpin vdub

hi i install at future shop chilliwack, if u have sealed boxes and thers any sort of air leak u will blow your subs. as for your fuses blowing try a bigger power wire with an equaly big ground, put in a 60 amp fuse frm the battery that might solve your problem. bridge your amp and run your subs at 2ohms if there 2ohm stable. hope that helps u out.

Justin LaRouche

well.....industrial grade wire? once again carful here! this stuff usually has a real low strand count if it isn't completly solid for that matter making hard to work with and less capable of handling power. a 8 awg kit from most retailers is only around 40.00 (worth buying). this may seem redundant but also upgrade that ground as well! it will be included in the kit. this will allow the curent path to move with out resistance that is created by a poor or smaller ground.

shingdaz

It sounds to me that your amplifier is : (A) Too powerfull for those subs...or (B) the amp can't handle itself under constant loads for extended periods. If your gains are too high on your amp...it will cuase the amp to clip...thus blowing your subs.

When an amp blows fuses it means it exceeded it power-out put and drew enough current above the fuse rating that where installed...60 amps is not that hard to reach when bumping...and musical transients under extreme low impendance loads can exceed thh 60 amp fuses you have...this means that your amp is puttin out more than 80 amps of juice constantly.

If you turn your gains down then y our amp might be fine...you will lose SPL...but the amp itself only does at least 400 WATTS RMS without any problems.

BigRedGuy

iTrader: (11)

The one thing I haven't seen mentioned here is the box type the JLs are in....I run 3 of the 10W0-8s off a Kicker DX700 in a ported box, and even tho they don't get pounded constantly with all 700watts, they are still alive.

All of the tips so far about fixing any power and ground wiring issues should stabilize the amp part of the equation. If you have 2 of the JLW1 SVC4ohm subs now, I would suggest wiring them in 4ohm stereo on that amp, and see if your problems stop happening. IIRC, that amp does around 150W X 2 @4ohms, and that may be all the subs can handle in their present enclosure.

HTH

My mistake, I re-read your posts and found the info.....if the subs came in a ported box that you have sealed up because it sounded crappy, the box may be too large for them to run sealed in. If you are sure the box is completely sealed, I would suggest filling some of the airspace with some foam, MDF or even "Nerf" bricks....

Failing that, getting a ported enclosure that is properly built for your subs will help you get the most out of your present setup....