All the elements of my system seem to have issues can somebody help?
07-16-2006, 01:38 PM
#11
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 78
My ears hurt...
Originally Posted by kristy_1117@hot
Ok where to start....i will post one problem at a time so i don't lose myself...i have an alpine deck that i originally had a 200watt clarion and two jls hooked up to...worked fine but not enough boom...
Second question, but more of a concern, are you playing your system loud enough to incurr hearing loss ?, if you do, and have incurred hearing loss, your music will sound like for the rest of your life.
07-16-2006, 01:42 PM
#12
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 10
seems i am a little naive in just about every department when it comes to believing a sales persons bs...i have alot to learn i know but they are so good at what they do and even when i call them on it they still have a way of making me believe what they want me to believe and i am always left bent over takin it dry in the end....although you say that is how you ended up in this business...meaning that you are one of those guys?
07-16-2006, 01:56 PM
#15
Hey Kristy we understand totally what its like to be on the receiving end of the shaft. No problem. 
Anyways on to your problem. If you have these subs paralleled then chances are you are over powering them to the twice the handling power of the sub. Your amp puts out 460W rms mono and those drivers are capable of 125W rms each and could handle upwards of 175W rms of true clean power. Now from what I understand you like bassy type music and probably like it cranked. So here is my suggestion. I noticed in your profile your running 12 Gauge power. I would upgrade this to 8 gauge. And most likely your amp is fine. When you were running 30 amp fuses your amp would pop them before getting into the higher output range of the amp. So your subs never reached there limits. Now that you put in the proper fuse your amp is capable of getting into the maximum performance range which is in the area of 460W rms. And now your speakers are being taxed. Are you also running these speakers in a ported or sealed box? I dont think its your amp to make you feel better. It does run for a while before the subs go correct? and it sounds fine during that time period correct?
Anyways on to your problem. If you have these subs paralleled then chances are you are over powering them to the twice the handling power of the sub. Your amp puts out 460W rms mono and those drivers are capable of 125W rms each and could handle upwards of 175W rms of true clean power. Now from what I understand you like bassy type music and probably like it cranked. So here is my suggestion. I noticed in your profile your running 12 Gauge power. I would upgrade this to 8 gauge. And most likely your amp is fine. When you were running 30 amp fuses your amp would pop them before getting into the higher output range of the amp. So your subs never reached there limits. Now that you put in the proper fuse your amp is capable of getting into the maximum performance range which is in the area of 460W rms. And now your speakers are being taxed. Are you also running these speakers in a ported or sealed box? I dont think its your amp to make you feel better. It does run for a while before the subs go correct? and it sounds fine during that time period correct?
07-16-2006, 02:01 PM
#16
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 10
everything you are saying is correct...i have just been told by another the same idea about the guage of the wire...you are right sounds great then stops...they were in a ported and it sounded like !then i sealed it.....i am obviously in need of some nicer 12s maybe?
07-16-2006, 02:05 PM
#17
Ya you may have to get a pair of subs that handle around 250W rms each or so. Now the gauge of your wire does not have much to do with it. I just noticed that and if your amp is a true 460W rms amp which I believe it is you should really use 8 gauge minimum. Keeping your amp feed properly will help it run cooler and cleaner.
07-16-2006, 02:07 PM
#18
Two fuses in the system. For the one at the battery to blow, the power line from the battery to the amp is dead shorting or you are drawing way too much power from the amp through the fuse.
For the fuses in the amp to go, there is a dead short inside of the amplifier. This can be caused by a bad ground, working the amp past it's recommended limits or it has just plain had it's day in the sun.
Here is how to blow a sub. (whisper into it's pole vent and tell it dirty stories?) Heat is a natural byproduct of power production. If you turn on your lights at home, how long before you can't touch the lightbulb. How long after playing the system hard before you noticed the amp was hot to the touch, perhaps even too hot to touch? This is all natural and you can't get rid of it. When power is applied to the speaker, heat is also generated in the voicecoils. This heat has a safe limit in every sub. If it is below the thermal barrier that the sub was designed to safely dissipate, you will have no problems. If it is above, the heat is going to start to melt the voicecoils or the voicecoil former on the inside of the speaker. End result is blown subs.
Heat is the real killer here, you just did not know it and we can't fault you for that. Now too much heat is generated by an amp that is way too stinking big for the subs or the amp is way too small for the subs and a distorted (clipped) signal is played into it. A clipped signal is a total loss of control of the motion of the speaker, it throws a massive amount of heat into the inside of the speaker. A sub can play all day long with a clipped signal or a clean signal and not fail, provided the thermal barrier is not breached. Sort of the same as you can keep yourself in a hot tub all day long until the water temp is raised and it starts to burn you. Another way to blow a sub due to heat is to play it at a sustained volume level, even without a clipped signal and even with below the maximum power rating. The longer something plays, the more heat is generated. If the speaker is not allowed to cool, poof, you are buying a new sub again.
To me it seems that with the limited amount of info I have to work with here (still waiting for that list of gear please), it seems that you have a bad match of amp to subs, wiring may be an issue as well. Have questions, please fire away with them.
For the fuses in the amp to go, there is a dead short inside of the amplifier. This can be caused by a bad ground, working the amp past it's recommended limits or it has just plain had it's day in the sun.
Here is how to blow a sub. (whisper into it's pole vent and tell it dirty stories?) Heat is a natural byproduct of power production. If you turn on your lights at home, how long before you can't touch the lightbulb. How long after playing the system hard before you noticed the amp was hot to the touch, perhaps even too hot to touch? This is all natural and you can't get rid of it. When power is applied to the speaker, heat is also generated in the voicecoils. This heat has a safe limit in every sub. If it is below the thermal barrier that the sub was designed to safely dissipate, you will have no problems. If it is above, the heat is going to start to melt the voicecoils or the voicecoil former on the inside of the speaker. End result is blown subs.
Heat is the real killer here, you just did not know it and we can't fault you for that. Now too much heat is generated by an amp that is way too stinking big for the subs or the amp is way too small for the subs and a distorted (clipped) signal is played into it. A clipped signal is a total loss of control of the motion of the speaker, it throws a massive amount of heat into the inside of the speaker. A sub can play all day long with a clipped signal or a clean signal and not fail, provided the thermal barrier is not breached. Sort of the same as you can keep yourself in a hot tub all day long until the water temp is raised and it starts to burn you. Another way to blow a sub due to heat is to play it at a sustained volume level, even without a clipped signal and even with below the maximum power rating. The longer something plays, the more heat is generated. If the speaker is not allowed to cool, poof, you are buying a new sub again.
To me it seems that with the limited amount of info I have to work with here (still waiting for that list of gear please), it seems that you have a bad match of amp to subs, wiring may be an issue as well. Have questions, please fire away with them.
07-16-2006, 04:54 PM
#20
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 10
not really picky on brand...i pretty much have it sumned up that these recent pair that were in were not equivalent to my original 10wo-8 they i believe are 10w1(there is no printing on the magnet or anything)if i am correct the one pair is 8ohm and the other 4...i am going to take everybodies advice and definately get a better guage wire and its not like i have the excuse not to as mny dad is head foreman and a local wire supplier and i get whatever and however much wire i want....so 8 is the most ideal i am guessing?well more like being told...but anyways going back to the subs...mine are obviously capable of producing the sound that i am lookin for not to mention they are all very obviously toasty......
