03 F250 With pics
04-24-2004, 06:32 PM
#1
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 22
Finally installed most of my old gear today.
Head Unit needs a little cleaning.
Sub box had to be modified to mount Blade amp to it(not alot of room under a power seat)
Before
After
Had to move some wiring under the passenger seat to make room for the Autotek. Not major, just to the side a bit.
Autotek mounted with PDB. Don't mind the rust.
CONT....
[ April 24, 2004, 07:49 PM: Message edited by: crewchief47 ]
Head Unit needs a little cleaning.
Sub box had to be modified to mount Blade amp to it(not alot of room under a power seat)
Before
After
Had to move some wiring under the passenger seat to make room for the Autotek. Not major, just to the side a bit.
Autotek mounted with PDB. Don't mind the rust.
CONT....
[ April 24, 2004, 07:49 PM: Message edited by: crewchief47 ]
04-24-2004, 07:05 PM
#2
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 22
Fronts are CDT CL-61 set with the 6.5" midrange mounted in stock location with 1/4" thick baffle(no metal cut) Tweets in kick panel.
Blade amp mounted on box.
Not completely done put much closer.
Stuff left to do:
1) Carpet box. I was going to paint it but seeing as I butchered it, I changed my mind.
2) Install Changer in centre console.
3) Right angle RCA plugs for Input and output of Blade.
4) Redo Amp grounds. They're sooooo ugly I would never show you people. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
5) Wire loom/clips behind rear seat
For those of you wondering why I bothered putting in the old stuff, one word, wife. It is much easier to buy replacement stuff when the stuff is installed. First to go will hopefully be the head unit followed quickly by the sub, although there is no time limit on this. That poor sub is screaming for 2 cubic feet and only has .6 approx (haven't recalculated after butchery) The box is stuffed with cotton as well.
Oh ya, no sound deadening yet.
[ April 24, 2004, 08:31 PM: Message edited by: crewchief47 ]
Blade amp mounted on box.
Not completely done put much closer.
Stuff left to do:
1) Carpet box. I was going to paint it but seeing as I butchered it, I changed my mind.
2) Install Changer in centre console.
3) Right angle RCA plugs for Input and output of Blade.
4) Redo Amp grounds. They're sooooo ugly I would never show you people. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
5) Wire loom/clips behind rear seat
For those of you wondering why I bothered putting in the old stuff, one word, wife. It is much easier to buy replacement stuff when the stuff is installed. First to go will hopefully be the head unit followed quickly by the sub, although there is no time limit on this. That poor sub is screaming for 2 cubic feet and only has .6 approx (haven't recalculated after butchery) The box is stuffed with cotton as well.
Oh ya, no sound deadening yet.
[ April 24, 2004, 08:31 PM: Message edited by: crewchief47 ]
04-25-2004, 07:36 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 22
Thanks guys!
Freak: It feels like the front stage is a little low but I've still got some listening to do as this is my first component set. I've seen some guys put tweets in the power window/lock panel and that is REAL close on the drivers side and a mile away on the pass. Figure this set up can't be any worse as the tweets end up much closer to the same distance. The only problem may be the nearness of the mid, I can touch it with my hand. This is all I could come up with without building kicks. The drivers side would have been a pain with the e-brake.
Thanks again guys. [img]graemlins/headbang.gif[/img]
Freak: It feels like the front stage is a little low but I've still got some listening to do as this is my first component set. I've seen some guys put tweets in the power window/lock panel and that is REAL close on the drivers side and a mile away on the pass. Figure this set up can't be any worse as the tweets end up much closer to the same distance. The only problem may be the nearness of the mid, I can touch it with my hand. This is all I could come up with without building kicks. The drivers side would have been a pain with the e-brake.
Thanks again guys. [img]graemlins/headbang.gif[/img]
04-26-2004, 12:28 AM
#8
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,120
Not necessarily Dazz...lotsa things to try before that!
But one thing I can tell ya... the sub facing up at the bottom of the seat will "frap" a bit plus leave the sub open for potential damage.
Solution...very easy, take your sub box and turn it upside down so the sub is now firing at the floor. Build little risers and install them at the corners of the box, and one continious riser all the way along the back edge. This alligment will "load" the sub and should thump even better and definately cleaner sounding as the rattle "frapp" from the seat will be gone, plus no one will have an acci-"dent" with your speaker cone.
But one thing I can tell ya... the sub facing up at the bottom of the seat will "frap" a bit plus leave the sub open for potential damage.
Solution...very easy, take your sub box and turn it upside down so the sub is now firing at the floor. Build little risers and install them at the corners of the box, and one continious riser all the way along the back edge. This alligment will "load" the sub and should thump even better and definately cleaner sounding as the rattle "frapp" from the seat will be gone, plus no one will have an acci-"dent" with your speaker cone.
04-26-2004, 07:16 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 22
Actually, I can't mount the sub that way. it may not be clear in the pic above so here is another one:
The back edge is at a 25 degree angle so the box is only approx 9" at the bottom. The sub definetly hits better with the seat down(it actually rests on the box a bit). No frapping yet. Eventually there will be a removable platform over the whole area for the damn [img]graemlins/freak.gif[/img] dog but I need to leave the seat in for seating.
I guess I could build a box full of 8's but I don't have any of those and I already have two 10's(I have a back up for when this ancient driver falls apart [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img] )
The back edge is at a 25 degree angle so the box is only approx 9" at the bottom. The sub definetly hits better with the seat down(it actually rests on the box a bit). No frapping yet. Eventually there will be a removable platform over the whole area for the damn [img]graemlins/freak.gif[/img] dog but I need to leave the seat in for seating.
I guess I could build a box full of 8's but I don't have any of those and I already have two 10's(I have a back up for when this ancient driver falls apart [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img] )
04-26-2004, 07:17 AM
#10
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 22
Actually, I can't mount the sub that way. it may not be clear in the pic above so here is another one:
The back edge is at a 25 degree angle so the box is only approx 9" at the bottom. The sub definetly hits better with the seat down(it actually rests on the box a bit). No frapping yet. Eventually there will be a removable platform over the whole area for the damn [img]graemlins/freak.gif[/img] dog but I need to leave the seat in for seating.
I guess I could build a box full of 8's but I don't have any of those and I already have two 10's(I have a back up for when this ancient driver falls apart [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img] )
The back edge is at a 25 degree angle so the box is only approx 9" at the bottom. The sub definetly hits better with the seat down(it actually rests on the box a bit). No frapping yet. Eventually there will be a removable platform over the whole area for the damn [img]graemlins/freak.gif[/img] dog but I need to leave the seat in for seating.
I guess I could build a box full of 8's but I don't have any of those and I already have two 10's(I have a back up for when this ancient driver falls apart [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img] )
