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0/1 wire under vehicle run

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Old 01-10-2010, 03:04 AM
  #41  
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Where did you connect the second battery though? The idea is to have it in the trunk to by bass any resistive losses in the wire ran to your trunk.
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Old 01-10-2010, 07:41 AM
  #42  
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I hooked it up to the battery under the hood. I have a second battery kicking around here and can hook it up in the trunk. I'll post back the results.
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:55 AM
  #43  
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the first thing i would do is to install a proper ground for your stuff that shouldnt be opposed by anyone. running a 300A wire for power and a sheet of 16 guage floor pan for a ground is kind of silly. and also with any kind of DC load your car will start to have serious electrical problems and rust due to DC electrolysis. i am willing to bet that your floor pan is warm after a long enough amp load.

2nd opinion. buy a digital multi meter and do the math. under stereo load measure your volts on your battery. then add up all the RMS ratings on your amps it should look like 1000/13 or something like that. this is amp draw of your system. if its over 105 you need a bigger alternator if its under 105 you dont. use commeon sense if your gain is set to 30% then you arent using all the power available. its NOT accurate but it will be close. do not try to measure amp draw using your multimeter without a DC voltage shunt.

3rd i have heard lots of things good and bad for caps and i get a kick out of people who buy them. normally stereos take from a battery then the batt is charged by a alt. when you put a cap in line the amps take from the cap first, where does the cap fill up from????? it just fills from the battery again! my favorite argument for caps is, "well you see its the speed at which things fill and drain" electricty travels at the speed of light people. sure resistors and chokes can alter this (sorta). but these arent used in this type of capacitor. if caps did work every stereo shop would have a display with a cap inline and one out of line and you could see the difference.
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:03 AM
  #44  
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1 - Getting the ground back to my battery is my next step.Just waiting until payday for the wire. And yes, in retrospect it does seem kinda of silly to ground to chassis with that kind of power.

2 - I have a DNN. Vehicle not running I am at 12.6. Vehicle running I am at 14.4 however I am yet to watch what the voltage does during heavy bass transients.

3 - I am not even touching this one. I have no intention of this turning in to a caps good/bad thread. There are definitely enough of those out there.
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:32 AM
  #45  
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and what is your best guess to the RMS wattage of the amps?
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Old 01-11-2010, 02:51 PM
  #46  
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by scampo77
the first thing i would do is to install a proper ground for your stuff that shouldnt be opposed by anyone. running a 300A wire for power and a sheet of 16 guage floor pan for a ground is kind of silly. and also with any kind of DC load your car will start to have serious electrical problems and rust due to DC electrolysis. i am willing to bet that your floor pan is warm after a long enough amp load.
lol, are you serious? Yeah some cars are worse than others for ground path but whatever.. The last bit was the best part.

At least you won't generally make things worse by running a ground cable back to the front. My advice - ground that cable in the trunk along with your amps and then at the battery. This makes use of both the cable and the car.

2nd opinion. buy a digital multi meter and do the math. under stereo load measure your volts on your battery. then add up all the RMS ratings on your amps it should look like 1000/13 or something like that. this is amp draw of your system. if its over 105 you need a bigger alternator if its under 105 you dont. use commeon sense if your gain is set to 30% then you arent using all the power available. its NOT accurate but it will be close. do not try to measure amp draw using your multimeter without a DC voltage shunt.

3rd i have heard lots of things good and bad for caps and i get a kick out of people who buy them. normally stereos take from a battery then the batt is charged by a alt. when you put a cap in line the amps take from the cap first, where does the cap fill up from????? it just fills from the battery again! my favorite argument for caps is, "well you see its the speed at which things fill and drain" electricty travels at the speed of light people. sure resistors and chokes can alter this (sorta). but these arent used in this type of capacitor. if caps did work every stereo shop would have a display with a cap inline and one out of line and you could see the difference.
I see we have someone else who doesn't understand how a cap works or what it does. Oh well, the OP doesn't want one anyway.
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Old 01-11-2010, 03:12 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by scampo77
running a 300A wire for power and a sheet of 16 guage floor pan for a ground is kind of silly. and also with any kind of DC load your car will start to have serious electrical problems and rust due to DC electrolysis. i am willing to bet that your floor pan is warm after a long enough amp load.
My head gets warm trying to figure out statements like these....

Not to be rude, but seriously? Where did you find this kind of information?
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Old 01-11-2010, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Dukk
Oh well, the OP doesn't want one anyway.
But he bought one anyway
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Old 01-11-2010, 04:28 PM
  #49  
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electricity does not move anywhere near the speed of light.
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Old 01-11-2010, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by scampo77
the first thing i would do is to install a proper ground for your stuff that shouldnt be opposed by anyone. running a 300A wire for power and a sheet of 16 guage floor pan for a ground is kind of silly. and also with any kind of DC load your car will start to have serious electrical problems and rust due to DC electrolysis. i am willing to bet that your floor pan is warm after a long enough amp load.

.
hmmm now I do think that ground resistance is not completely insignificant I have not found any references on the net regarding to what it actually is? SO. What is the resistance of ground from a trunk mounted ground strap to battery/alternator? I found nothing. Do you know what it is?
So I did some basic electrical calculations based on sheet resistance.
Based on conductivity of steel, , a 2 meter wide sheet, 2 meters long and 1 mm thick I got a resistance of 0.0016 Ohms... This is the same as 17 feet of 0 gauge wire.. So this seems to be quite balanced in terms of the power loss.

As for your heating! um again. I dont think this is significant... even at 300 amps going thru .002 ohms, we get 180 watts.. not quite enough to keep up with the heat radiation capability of a 2x2 meter sheet of steel. The same for the power wire... 180 watts disipated by 300 amps over 17 feet of zero gauge is 10 watts per foot.. I think we are safe.
Remember at 300 amps @ 14 volts that is 4200 watts...so loosing about 10% thru the power wire and ground. Think my numbers are close.. would like feedback


I see so much throwing up in the air of ideas without any one making the basic investigations using engineering science and math to back up what they are saying.
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