cspurdy

Gotcha, well I'll get it all hooked up and see how the electrical seems. Upgrade if necessary. Many thanks all for your opinions.

cspurdy

Well I got it all in. No pics unfortunately. Went in nice as pie actually. I had to drill and grommet a new hole in the firewal but other than that no problems. There was a niceplastic cavern runing under the moulding which had enough room for the wire.

As for how the car is holding up electrically with the MRP-M2000. Wonderfully actually. I am yet to get it out at night but I checked the lights on the garage door and didn't see any obvious dimming. I'll take it for a spin tonight to make sure.

I didn't expect to get too much more output from my 2 x 12w3v3's. I was pushing them w/500rms prior anyways. A little louder. It'll hold me over until I find a matching pair of subs in a while.

cspurdy

Okay, I spoke too soon on the electrical portion. It has taken a bit of gain control (and volume control) to maintain the level of dimming as I was having running 1000w RMS. Not really a problem yet as I can only push the JL'S so far anyways however when I find my nw subs there will be issues.

As for electrical right now I have:

Big 3 0/1
0/1 guage running to MRP-M2000
4 guage to MBQuart DSC4125 - using two channels
Energizer deep cell/starter battery

At this point the hunt is on for a HO Alt. I cannot honestly see how adding a second battery to the mix will improve things. The problem I will have is finding an alt for my car, 2004 Chevrolet Malibu 3.5L.

Thoughts?

PsychoAcoustics Canada

iTrader: (3)

with that little power you shouldnt need a HO alt. Time to go over what went wrong in your install.

cspurdy

Hmmm, with around 2500 RMS (M2000 = 2203 birthed + DSC4125) that isn't too much for a 105amp alt? Now granted I would probably not be making RMS, I don't know. The only weak link I can think of at the moment would be the grounding point for the amps. It's grounded to the rear seat bolt. I will change it up and see how she goes. Other than that the big 3 is pretty straight forward. Maybe it's time to take out the camera to get some opinions.

RomanticMoments

Adding a second battery would be where I would start. Much like jalat mentioned. Yes it is more of a load, however the alternator can't produce a high amount of power in bursts like the amps will demand. Batteries and alternators need to work together. Remember, amps is power, not volts. Just because the alt can produce 14.4 volts doesn't mean it's producing 150 amps. Amps are what amps need (lol) The battery is the tank, the alternator is just the hose filling it. Where you run into problems is when there is a load high enough that drains both batteries to the point where priority is the stereo not the rest of the electrical system (hence dimming) and at that point you need a bigger "hose" to fill the tanks. Run a second battery and make sure that all of the ground points are solid and are bare metal to bare metal. Even a 2 or 3 Farad capacitor would be a good bandaid solution, but a second batt is my $0.02

Father Yuli

iTrader: (17)

a cap is the worst possible thing you can do to your stereo.

you need to ground your amps to the frame as well as the battery itself.

i figured you were running both, power and ground, not just power.

PsychoAcoustics Canada

iTrader: (3)

like yuli said, run a ground back to your battery, 2nd battery will do wonders. cap is crap, dont do it, waste of money, HO alt waste of money, theres alot of us here who run 2-4x your power daily with no issues, and no HO alt.

Kyle_H

Is that just for his stereo or in general? And why?

Njord

^ For the price of a Cap you can buy a 2nd battery. battery > cap