A *proper* battery isolator. *Critical tech info*
02-15-2011, 07:27 PM
#21
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 17
MR2NR: i have a pretty clear understanding...
and not only do i know exactly how this works, I can verify it with meter measurements. The rear battery powers the system, it draws charging current as its used but that current will never match the systems needs unless the thing was wired in parallel (which its not).. or if i were to completely drain the battery to zero AND crank the stereo.
As for the stereo, I guess it might soften some of you to know that its not a ridiculous load. I overkill with the spare battery, thats more just to provide steady clean energy and be creative. My total draw (RMS) is a maximum of 2000 watts.
THat gives me about 150 amps MAX current at normal operating voltage.
#4 has a safe rating of 95 amps and a good safety buffer of about 30 amps if non continuous draw.
My system at normal (but still pounding) levels will likely rarely peak above the 100amps to begin with. So really my safety margin is fine, though I admit I could have run #2, the system grew a little on me after installing. I'm still covered.
I know forum guys love to pick apart but really, i have it all covered nicely here.
The system has ample power, exceptional grounding, is filtered through a large cap, has a power source which will entirely power the system (rear battery) for any length of time I intend to use it... and the overall design is pretty badass
Despite what some of you *think* I have papers for my understanding, and the fact is the rear battery powers the system. I will not see high current to that battery amounting to full system load. When parked and engine off I am completely protected.
Now that I've upped the system size a little, next time I have all the seats out I *may* swap the #4 for a #2. since i now have it in stock.
and not only do i know exactly how this works, I can verify it with meter measurements. The rear battery powers the system, it draws charging current as its used but that current will never match the systems needs unless the thing was wired in parallel (which its not).. or if i were to completely drain the battery to zero AND crank the stereo.
As for the stereo, I guess it might soften some of you to know that its not a ridiculous load. I overkill with the spare battery, thats more just to provide steady clean energy and be creative. My total draw (RMS) is a maximum of 2000 watts.
THat gives me about 150 amps MAX current at normal operating voltage.
#4 has a safe rating of 95 amps and a good safety buffer of about 30 amps if non continuous draw.
My system at normal (but still pounding) levels will likely rarely peak above the 100amps to begin with. So really my safety margin is fine, though I admit I could have run #2, the system grew a little on me after installing. I'm still covered.
I know forum guys love to pick apart but really, i have it all covered nicely here.
The system has ample power, exceptional grounding, is filtered through a large cap, has a power source which will entirely power the system (rear battery) for any length of time I intend to use it... and the overall design is pretty badass
Despite what some of you *think* I have papers for my understanding, and the fact is the rear battery powers the system. I will not see high current to that battery amounting to full system load. When parked and engine off I am completely protected.
Now that I've upped the system size a little, next time I have all the seats out I *may* swap the #4 for a #2. since i now have it in stock.
02-15-2011, 07:51 PM
#24
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 114
The main flaws i see is.. 1. if the car is running why not have the extra power from both batteries. 2. if the car is off there is no charge and 2 batteries will last longer then one. if you run the battery to low without charging you can potentially damage your equipment.. if your going to be using a higher output alternator then why not just have a larger battery bank and just know not to drain your batteries to low?......
02-15-2011, 08:56 PM
#26
02-15-2011, 09:34 PM
#27
MR2 doesn't know what he's talking about. you're the electrician, and you have papers. very legit. even though you've never been trained on 12V automotive charging systems, or have likely worked on anything automotive, you're clearly the expert here.
don't take their crap. if anything, you should be educating us more, I think there are still several people here who somehow believe that capacitors are a waste of money. I tried to tell them otherwise, but I have no papers to give weight to my argument...
LOL
02-15-2011, 10:00 PM
#28
My bet is that he has close to 12volts at his amplifier with the vehicle not running and close to 14.4 when it is running. That said then, where in the trunk do you keep the hampster and it's wheel that acts as a generator for the extra 2.4 volts (give or take)? Does the bass affect his performance or is he down with it? What do you feed him and how often, we don't want him to starve back there. Or would you just rather insist still that your battery runs the stereo and there is no chance that at 14.4 volts the alternator is actually doing the job. Personally I am going with the hampster.
