Free-Air Subs?
#11
05cvr15-2
OK, you've got me talked into the Kickers. I had small Kicker 2 ways in one of my old cars, they were good. I've got a 2 way crossover from them I use on the fronts.
I just found them online for 98.00 US each + 47.66 shipping.
That looked like a good price since onlinecarstereo wanted 169 US each
Now i need to think about the other speakers but haven't taken the car apart yet to see what fits.
I just found them online for 98.00 US each + 47.66 shipping.
That looked like a good price since onlinecarstereo wanted 169 US each
Now i need to think about the other speakers but haven't taken the car apart yet to see what fits.
#13
Originally Posted by Sassmaster
I have a DLS Sp12, it likes sealed and ported, but I'd imagine that it'll work great IB, since it's a really well built sub. handles 500 RMS, very, very efficient, asking 400.
#14
Originally Posted by defro13
i think the bmw would work great. so long as the front wave and rear wave dont interfere with each other and cause cancellation just about any car with a trunk can work well.
free air will give you a more linear impedence response adn not have a large peak that is generally associated with sealed and vented boxes and in my experience better deep bass extension over a selaed box. imo the best box is no box fo sq oriented bass. i am a big fan or free air, its just not for everyone. the preparation to do it correctly is time consuming and most people whould just prefer blasting 6 pieces of mdf together or buying a prefab
free air will give you a more linear impedence response adn not have a large peak that is generally associated with sealed and vented boxes and in my experience better deep bass extension over a selaed box. imo the best box is no box fo sq oriented bass. i am a big fan or free air, its just not for everyone. the preparation to do it correctly is time consuming and most people whould just prefer blasting 6 pieces of mdf together or buying a prefab
#15
Hi Bob, I think i know what he meant about preparation. You need a very solid board to mount the subs on betwwen the trunk and the car. It has to be a complete seal. Plus you have to seal all holes in the rear deck. Plus, if its like my car, with 6x9's in the rear deck, you have to put boxes behind them. My new car has leather interior, so i just decided to do the sub board in leather to match. Maybe covered in Dynomat first.
I go to great lengths on my own installs, but most install places won't do all that without big bucks.
I go to great lengths on my own installs, but most install places won't do all that without big bucks.
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
dont think of it as firing the woofers through the ski hole. that main thing is to have at least 2 or 3" in front of the woofers and make sure that the front wave(in phase) doesnt have a chance to interact with the rear wave(out of phase) this is the most important element of good ib installs. also critical is the rgidity of the baffle. i rarely use wood but prefer to use at least 1/2" aluminum with braces to support. also important is to be sure the baffle is very very well secured to the vehicle
#20
I got a response on my e-mail to Kicker:
Hi Tom!
The CVR's will not work in a Free-Air application. The Comps are the
only one's that we currently make that can be mounted as such. You may
want to see if you can find any of the old Free-Airs we used to make.
I hope this helps! If you have any questions feel free to contact us.
Thank you for your interest in Kicker!
Keep Livin' Loud!!!
Technical Support Rep
Hi Tom!
The CVR's will not work in a Free-Air application. The Comps are the
only one's that we currently make that can be mounted as such. You may
want to see if you can find any of the old Free-Airs we used to make.
I hope this helps! If you have any questions feel free to contact us.
Thank you for your interest in Kicker!
Keep Livin' Loud!!!
Technical Support Rep