Knowing the voltage into an amp?
#1
Knowing the voltage into an amp?
So I been checking on amps as I wanna upgrade. And a lot of amps can input different voltages?
Some say things like "1 Ohm at 14.4V 3500watts"
Some can even input up to 18 volts?
Now my question is how do you change the voltage into the amp to draw that amount? Is it the number of batteries you have? Or does it have soemthing to do with some of them having more then 1 power and ground? Some have 2 I seen?
I am trying to learn all this SPL stuff and this is one of the questions I couldnt google to find the answer lol.
Thanks
Some say things like "1 Ohm at 14.4V 3500watts"
Some can even input up to 18 volts?
Now my question is how do you change the voltage into the amp to draw that amount? Is it the number of batteries you have? Or does it have soemthing to do with some of them having more then 1 power and ground? Some have 2 I seen?
I am trying to learn all this SPL stuff and this is one of the questions I couldnt google to find the answer lol.
Thanks
#2
Running 18 volts is a really laborious process. I wouldn't consider it to be necessary unless you're looking at seriously competing. Basically you need to modify your alt to put out 18v, an 18v-capable battery, and a regulator to run the rest of the stuff in the vehicle at the regular 14.4v so you don't let out the smoke.
Keep in mind that if your amps use a regulated power supply you won't gain anything from going to 18v
Keep in mind that if your amps use a regulated power supply you won't gain anything from going to 18v
#3
So when looking at amps 14.4 V is the normal rating from a non tuned alt and requlator?
Meaning whatever the power output is at 14.4 volts thats roughly what the amp will push out at in a regular car? Without upgrades?
Meaning whatever the power output is at 14.4 volts thats roughly what the amp will push out at in a regular car? Without upgrades?
#5
when you load up an energy supply it's voltage will drop
if you overload the alternator (pull more than it is available) the battery will supply the additional power.
the battery sits at 12.6V when full, under load will be less than that.
if you overload the alternator (pull more than it is available) the battery will supply the additional power.
the battery sits at 12.6V when full, under load will be less than that.
#6
so when the vehicle is shut off it sits at 12.6 volts? Or can you battery hold 14.4?
Also when I buy a battery for my trunk what exactly do I have to look for? If I just wanna keep the stock Alt.? I am gonna do the big 3 to help.
Also when I buy a battery for my trunk what exactly do I have to look for? If I just wanna keep the stock Alt.? I am gonna do the big 3 to help.
#7
18Volt setups are usually 16V batteries on a charging system with alts designed to make that power safely. Some people might even run many 6v batts...
Others don't even tie into their factory electrical, and just isolate the entire setup. eg. Bart... all his setup is in the back (deck, batts, amp(s)). He charges between runs gets batts topped up, burps, then back to the charger before next run.
It all depends on the class you plan to compete in. As the rules for each class dictate max volts, # of batts (& size), some maximum power allowed... and so on.
I would pick a class then go from there. Your amp and class will dictate your electrical requirements.
As for amp ratings... go by amps rated into 13.8-12.?v... some only list in 14.4, so just know that you'll never make that power without voltage staying that high, the lower rated voltage amps will stand better chance at making that rated power when it is loaded down. Then there is the whole load rise thing...
Start by picking a class...
Others don't even tie into their factory electrical, and just isolate the entire setup. eg. Bart... all his setup is in the back (deck, batts, amp(s)). He charges between runs gets batts topped up, burps, then back to the charger before next run.
It all depends on the class you plan to compete in. As the rules for each class dictate max volts, # of batts (& size), some maximum power allowed... and so on.
I would pick a class then go from there. Your amp and class will dictate your electrical requirements.
As for amp ratings... go by amps rated into 13.8-12.?v... some only list in 14.4, so just know that you'll never make that power without voltage staying that high, the lower rated voltage amps will stand better chance at making that rated power when it is loaded down. Then there is the whole load rise thing...
Start by picking a class...
Last edited by DeadlySones; 01-16-2011 at 04:31 AM.
#9
#10
I been reading and I think I would like to stay in Street A for now until I learn everything then maybe upgrade. I will probably stick with the 1 12" I got now. So what kind of Battery can I use for Street A as the site is kind of confusing.