Need advice for underseat bass/midbass
#1
Need advice for underseat bass/midbass
I am getting a JBL Ms-8 to integrate my VW RCD 310 system that came with the polo. active front comps and rear coax on doors.
My question is which among these two will be the best to put under both front seats. i want it to play the midbass too as i like really warm and full sound rather than thin and boomy.
i was thinking of having a 300hz active crossover from the Ms-8 to the subs. the pioneer's response is 30-1500hz while the kicker is 25-350hz.
I love a good punchy beat (i listen to house/trance mostly and sometimes slow rock) but im not a basshead anymore like with the hip hop songs.
Which would u ppl recommend? new suggestions are welcome.
Pioneer TS-SW841D
8" Single 4 Ohm Pioneer Subwoofer
Power Handling:
Peak: 500 watts
RMS: 120 watts
Impedance: Single 4 ohm
IMPP Composite cone woofer
3-Layer fiber woven radial surround
Projected pole yoke with vented pole
Cast aluminum basket with fin-shaped design
Voice coil bobbin: glass cloth
4-Layer, long voice coil
Strontium Magnet Construction
Rubber gasket
Spring compression wire terminals
Frequency response: 30-1500 Hz
Sensitivity: 85 dB
Kicker 10CVT65
6.5" Single 2 Ohm CompVT (CVT) Subwoofer
Shallow mount subwoofer allows for deep bass with minimum mounting depth
Power Handling:
Peak: 300 watts
RMS: 150 watts
Impedance: Single 2 Ohm
Injection molded SoloKon cone
Ribbed Santoprene surround
Stitched surround for enhanced cone-to-surround strength
Extra strong adhesive and stitching prevents the cone from detaching from the surround
Spiralead tinsel lead technology weaves the tinsel leads into the spider
Super rigid cone and 360-degree back bracing eliminate distortion
Sturdy steel basket holds the subwoofer mounted firmly
Steel basket features perimeter venting around the single voice coil
Strong spring-loaded terminals
Newly re-designed 2010 basket structure
Includes a built-in steel clearance adapter plate, which replaces part of the enclosure wall to allow shallower installations
Shallow mount subwoofer allows for deep bass with minimum mounting depth
Ventless pole piece for extreme power handling
Shallow four-layer voice coil
High-Temperature voice coil
Powerful rear magnet
Frequency response: 25-350 Hz
Mounting depth: 2-7/8"
Also found as: 10CVT65-2 ohm, CompVT652, CompVT 652, CompVT 6.5" 2 ohm, 2010 CVT652
Kicker CVT82
8" Single 2 Ohm CompVT (CVT) Subwoofer
Shallow mount subwoofer allows for deep bass with minimum mounting depth
Power Handling:
Peak: 400 watts
RMS: 200 watts
Impedance: Single 2 Ohm
Injection molded SoloKon cone
Ribbed Santoprene surround
Stitched surround for enhanced cone-to-surround strength
Extra strong adhesive and stitching prevents the cone from detaching from the surround
Spiralead tinsel lead technology weaves the tinsel leads into the spider
Super rigid cone and 360-degree back bracing eliminate distortion
Sturdy steel basket holds the subwoofer mounted firmly
Steel basket features perimeter venting around the single voice coil
Strong spring-loaded terminals
Newly re-designed 2010 basket structure
Includes a built-in steel clearance adapter plate, which replaces part of the enclosure wall to allow shallower installations
Shallow mount subwoofer allows for deep bass with minimum mounting depth
Ventless pole piece for extreme power handling
Shallow four-layer voice coil
High-Temperature voice coil
Powerful rear magnet
Frequency response: 25-350 Hz
Mounting depth: 3-3/8"
Also found as: 10CVT8-2 ohm, CompVT82, CompVT 82, CompVT 8" 2 ohm, 2010 CVT82
#3
i wouldnt suggest a sub at all for that application ( like bmw under seat subs )
the hassle in my opinion is a waste compared to the amount of output youll receive..
Id HIGHLY suggest upgrading your front components to compensate for not having or running a sub.
For example i ran my hertz MLK165 components all the way down to 40hz NO PROBLEM in the stock doors in a huge cabin in my nissan altima 3.5se and many people were tricked in thinking i had a small sub! even though i ran subless for a long time. if you find a higher quality set of components you almost dont need to have a sub depending on your vehicle and requirements.
John
the hassle in my opinion is a waste compared to the amount of output youll receive..
Id HIGHLY suggest upgrading your front components to compensate for not having or running a sub.
For example i ran my hertz MLK165 components all the way down to 40hz NO PROBLEM in the stock doors in a huge cabin in my nissan altima 3.5se and many people were tricked in thinking i had a small sub! even though i ran subless for a long time. if you find a higher quality set of components you almost dont need to have a sub depending on your vehicle and requirements.
John
#4
If you aren't a 'basshead' and want some real nice punch, I'd definitely recommend some bass shakers.
-More bass perceived without skewing the balance of your system
-easier to install
-cheaper
https://www.caraudioforumz.com/general-discussion-10/tactile-transducer-bass-shaker-buttkicker-mini-concert-242873/
-More bass perceived without skewing the balance of your system
-easier to install
-cheaper
https://www.caraudioforumz.com/general-discussion-10/tactile-transducer-bass-shaker-buttkicker-mini-concert-242873/
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scotiacustom
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03-01-2007 05:17 PM