The specs for the drivers are here: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...php?page_id=15 ... a dealer friend of mine usually suggests around 1.25cuft per driver, tuned to 35hz for car use or 30hz for home theatre use. Those slot ported boxes are easy to build, I use 1/4" MDF to build ports and 3/4" for the rest of it. That amp will do a nice job running your system, I would suggest bridging the front and rear channels to get solid power for the component sets, and the sub channel has enough power to run the subs all day long.

As for the ports, using one or two is up to you....as long as the surface area is the same as the round port, it will work exactly the same....good luck with the new project, you have quality equipment and it should sound great if you take the time to put it in right... [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]

 

^^^ What he said, I ran 10W0's for 6+ years. 1.25 cubes ported each, tuned around 30-35hz and you will be laughing. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]

 

BIG RED GUY; Does the 1/4" mdf for the ports vibrate or rattle at high spl's?

 

Nope....I use carpenters glue and small diameter screws to hold the port parts together....never had any problems... [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]

 

I bought the 6.5" infinities off of Jeepbeats, so I will be keeping my 4" coaxial dash speakers, and installing my 6.5" in my doors.

I essentially want to use my 4" coaxials for tweeters and my 6.5" as midbass, creating a sort of component set.

With my 4 speaker channels, can I get optimal power for my 6.5" doing it this way?? Can I reduce the amount of power going to the 4", making for more power available for the 6.5" ?

my 4" dash speakers I have already (Alpines) are awesome. They play the highs crystal clear and obviously have a little bit broader frequency then a tweet.

THanks