Kaption / Kicker / JL / Kenwood... let me know if this sounds alright
06-01-2010 | 11:34 AM
#12
Thread Starter
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 10
Okay... lemme explain some of the questions.....
Kicker sub is a shallow mount in a Stillwater enclosure, direct from Kicker. Sealed.
I bought the shallow mount because I was told it was very comparible (performance wise) to a normal sub. I did this simply to conserve on trunk space (family man now). I used to run JL 12" W6's back in the day. Was told this guy would outperform that sub. Seeing is believing, and I'm not a believer. Mistake made, lesson learnt.
I agree that the Amp power class must have an impact as well. 15 yrs ago my mono block MTX 200W rms at 4 ohm would be blowing the doors off this 600W rms Kenwood. What gives? I don't understand what the heck has gone on here with car audio, but things seem more conveluted now than they were back then. Too much fine print to be reading.... enough ranting.
So, what sub/amp set up do I really need here for my low's? I'm sure I'll be keenly happy with my Kaption's as they are familiar to me (haven't changed much in 15 yrs).
Kicker sub is a shallow mount in a Stillwater enclosure, direct from Kicker. Sealed.
I bought the shallow mount because I was told it was very comparible (performance wise) to a normal sub. I did this simply to conserve on trunk space (family man now). I used to run JL 12" W6's back in the day. Was told this guy would outperform that sub. Seeing is believing, and I'm not a believer. Mistake made, lesson learnt.
I agree that the Amp power class must have an impact as well. 15 yrs ago my mono block MTX 200W rms at 4 ohm would be blowing the doors off this 600W rms Kenwood. What gives? I don't understand what the heck has gone on here with car audio, but things seem more conveluted now than they were back then. Too much fine print to be reading.... enough ranting.
So, what sub/amp set up do I really need here for my low's? I'm sure I'll be keenly happy with my Kaption's as they are familiar to me (haven't changed much in 15 yrs).
06-01-2010 | 03:06 PM
#13
Kaption subs are gtg in my opinion. I'd go with them since you have access to kaption.
As far as the shallow subs. Ya they just dont seem to get low enough for me either.
If space is an issue then I would recommend one 12" in a 1.5cuft sealed box. Tuck it in the corner of the trunk and bob's ur uncle
As far as the shallow subs. Ya they just dont seem to get low enough for me either.
If space is an issue then I would recommend one 12" in a 1.5cuft sealed box. Tuck it in the corner of the trunk and bob's ur uncle
06-01-2010 | 09:06 PM
#14
Thread Starter
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 10
Unfortunately I hadn't read this after work.... so I went out and got a little nutty.
Here's the solution I came up with (and my head is still ringing from it)
2 of these freaks of audiophile nature (insert drum roll here) JL 10W6v2's
Powered by this monster JL2 1000.1 (running at 1 ohm stable)
Had to upgrade the old fuse block and add a Kinetic battery, but holy CRAP does it POUND!
Honestly I couldn't be happier. I've always been a JL fan, and couldn't believe I bought a Kicker in the first place. Maybe the wrong sub for the wrong application.... but this just affirms JL's kick **** bass machines.
If you're light on the pocket book I'd advise staying away from the W7's or W6's. I almost fell over when he gave me the bill. Forgot to ask the prices before the install. Hope mama don't need a new pair of shoes!
Here's the solution I came up with (and my head is still ringing from it)
2 of these freaks of audiophile nature (insert drum roll here) JL 10W6v2's
Powered by this monster JL2 1000.1 (running at 1 ohm stable)
Had to upgrade the old fuse block and add a Kinetic battery, but holy CRAP does it POUND!
Honestly I couldn't be happier. I've always been a JL fan, and couldn't believe I bought a Kicker in the first place. Maybe the wrong sub for the wrong application.... but this just affirms JL's kick **** bass machines.
If you're light on the pocket book I'd advise staying away from the W7's or W6's. I almost fell over when he gave me the bill. Forgot to ask the prices before the install. Hope mama don't need a new pair of shoes!
06-01-2010 | 09:09 PM
#15
Thread Starter
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 10
And yes, those Kaption components are unbelievable. I'm loving them.
So I'm going from "looking for something decent" to "SQ time".
If any of you folks are out in the circuit let me know. I'm looking to get into some small competitions.
So I'm going from "looking for something decent" to "SQ time".
If any of you folks are out in the circuit let me know. I'm looking to get into some small competitions.
06-01-2010 | 09:51 PM
#16
Interesting.. got some details to back that up.
If anyone is interested check out the TrueSpec vs CCA video on the left side of the stinger site http://stingerelectronics.com/
CCA is fine - until you really draw a large amount of power on it for the gauge your using. Problem is most guys don't do that.
For the few extra bucks as a % of the cost of kit - use copper... unless your the type of guy who likes to run his performance car on 29 dollar tires??
IMO.
If anyone is interested check out the TrueSpec vs CCA video on the left side of the stinger site http://stingerelectronics.com/
CCA is fine - until you really draw a large amount of power on it for the gauge your using. Problem is most guys don't do that.
For the few extra bucks as a % of the cost of kit - use copper... unless your the type of guy who likes to run his performance car on 29 dollar tires??
IMO.
You do the math, 2 runs vs 1 run....
And ya, my Oldsmobile rides on tires worth 65$ a pop...
12-31-2010 | 03:34 PM
#17
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1
i got an old school kicker kx 1200.1 thats gonna run a set of spl 1000 kaptions rated at600 rms each. i got an old school kicker impulse 4 channel amp thats gonna run my 6x9's and mids. 8 speakers in total. plus im gonna run 4 speakers off of my deck power. i want to upgrade my alternator cause i know i need it. but how large should i go? Any advice would be nice. Thanx
12-31-2010 | 08:03 PM
#18
50 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 310
i got an old school kicker kx 1200.1 thats gonna run a set of spl 1000 kaptions rated at600 rms each. i got an old school kicker impulse 4 channel amp thats gonna run my 6x9's and mids. 8 speakers in total. plus im gonna run 4 speakers off of my deck power. i want to upgrade my alternator cause i know i need it. but how large should i go? Any advice would be nice. Thanx
Well You best be looking into 200A +, But what is vehicle. If the 1200 does 1200 watts you be looking at 100 A of draw from that amp alone. then the car has its own draw So I would for nothing less than 200A , but remeber the Big is the best investment. Stock alt/batt or not.
12-31-2010 | 08:06 PM
#19
50 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 310
Unfortunately I hadn't read this after work.... so I went out and got a little nutty.
Here's the solution I came up with (and my head is still ringing from it)
2 of these freaks of audiophile nature (insert drum roll here) JL 10W6v2's
Powered by this monster JL2 1000.1 (running at 1 ohm stable)
Had to upgrade the old fuse block and add a Kinetic battery, but holy CRAP does it POUND!
Honestly I couldn't be happier. I've always been a JL fan, and couldn't believe I bought a Kicker in the first place. Maybe the wrong sub for the wrong application.... but this just affirms JL's kick **** bass machines.
If you're light on the pocket book I'd advise staying away from the W7's or W6's. I almost fell over when he gave me the bill. Forgot to ask the prices before the install. Hope mama don't need a new pair of shoes!
Here's the solution I came up with (and my head is still ringing from it)
2 of these freaks of audiophile nature (insert drum roll here) JL 10W6v2's
Powered by this monster JL2 1000.1 (running at 1 ohm stable)
Had to upgrade the old fuse block and add a Kinetic battery, but holy CRAP does it POUND!
Honestly I couldn't be happier. I've always been a JL fan, and couldn't believe I bought a Kicker in the first place. Maybe the wrong sub for the wrong application.... but this just affirms JL's kick **** bass machines.
If you're light on the pocket book I'd advise staying away from the W7's or W6's. I almost fell over when he gave me the bill. Forgot to ask the prices before the install. Hope mama don't need a new pair of shoes!
Ya well that is the way the JL rolls, I realize this tread is that old but....
I cant help but post dump on it. I know of so many others that would be as good if not better for 1/2 of what the OP got up the *** on . One of the specific reason my user name come about. lol...
01-01-2011 | 08:05 AM
#20
I can relate with the OP... I always like the older JL products, and a few years back decided I wanted something more than my 3-12" RF P3's. When I went into my local shop I almost had a heart attack when I got the bill for 3 12W6v2's and 3 small ported (raw wood) enclosures and the total was $2024... 
but at the time I had a good job so I didn't really care. They did sound amazing, but after I got some more power, they didn't like it much... There is better (including SQ subs) for less. I actually had 1 15" TFOne metering louder than all 3 JL's but I do love the sound from W6v2's.
I now have the indestructible TFOnes, and they kick ***.
(When used properly 
)
but at the time I had a good job so I didn't really care. They did sound amazing, but after I got some more power, they didn't like it much... There is better (including SQ subs) for less. I actually had 1 15" TFOne metering louder than all 3 JL's but I do love the sound from W6v2's. I now have the indestructible TFOnes, and they kick ***.
(When used properly )
Last edited by DeadlySones; 01-01-2011 at 08:10 AM.
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