the newer ones have the multi roll surround and are the current model, so if it looks like those then they're rated for 500 watts rms, if it's the previous model they're rated for 300 watts rms. If they're dual 4 ohm, then you can parallel wire them to a 1ohm load (4+4=2 ohms each, 2+2=1 ohm final load). 1 ohm final load means you can get a Hifonics mono 1 ohm stable amp from ebay for around 200.00 brand new. Here's a link to a 1000 watt Titan amp for under 200.00:

NEW HIFONICS TXi1008D 1000W CLASS D CAR AMPLIFIER AMP - (eBay.ca item 150263202631 end time 04-Jul-08 15:08:35 EDT)

 

Stay away from Gaybay.. do yourself a favor.. especially with amps.. anything could go wrong with the cheaper hifonics amps.. I've had two friends running them, one acted up a few months in, and another 1 year later, and both no warranties.. I'm glad I didn't go that route, and went with sundown. their amps are solid.. and worth every penny spent on them.

 

yeah, that's always a potential risk. If you can get a good deal locally, that's always better. Just to be fair, I've had my Hifonics for 3.5 years now with not an issue, and bought and sold 3 others to friends and my neighbour with no problems as well. They are also about 3 years old. My Alpine subs, previous infinity components, my current JBL components, and the rear JBL's are also from ebay, as is my RF 4004 amp. The rest was bought locally. Ebay can be a gamble, but If you know what you're doing and you find a good seller (some are brick and mortar stores as well), you can save a lot.

 

keep in mind, it doesn't matter how reputible the brand is, or how high their quality is, ALL manufacturs have electronics that go bad, sometimes a few minutes after install, sometimes a few months. The question is, when you buy it off ebay, are they going to help you when they go bad.

Speakers are pretty basic though, usually if they work out of the box, their going to work for many years to come unless you send distorted sound through them (common) or severly overpower them (not so common).

 

the subs are the 500 rms style type rs .

 

also , i met this gentlemen .. who wants to sell me an old school orion amp... which he claims is the right amp for my subs.

 

hey taylor, i can help you with the install when u get your stuff

 

do you have the model number and specs? he can say anything to sell it. If the Orion amp (products range from good to excellent (old school stuff)) is 1 ohm stable and produces 800-1200 watts at that load (or at 4ohms as that's the other wiring option for your subs), then you're good to go. That would be the "right" amp for your subs.

 

Need to take issue with this statement. Most speaker failures occur from underpowering not overpowering. When not enough power(current) is available for a given volume level, the music wave ( AC) is clipped and the resulting output is DC. DC is what your toaster uses to heat up the coils inside the toaster. That is exactly what happens to the small copper voice coils in the speaker when DC is applied. Hence the term "fried" a speaker. I always recommend about 50% more power than the speakers RMS rating.

I'm an old fart now ( 40) but used to be seriously involved in car audio in it's infancy as a youngster. Now my audio kicks come from tube audio and vinyl but the concepts are similar, now I just spend 10 times the amount of money.

Mike