Going to try Active-question
#1
Going to try Active-question
I've heard so many good things about switching to an active setup (more tuning options, etc) that I'm thinking of giving it a try. I guess I'll put the 6 week old TC4004 on the shelf for the moment and get an amp more suited for active setup.
Anyway, DLS says tweets will handle 90wrms, mids 150wrms which is fine becaude the new amp will be 65-85 per channel.
2 Questions:
1) AMP INPUT: The amp has A-B-C-D labels for RCA connections instead of left, right, front, back, etc, but my Pioneer pre puts are labeled Left Front, Left Rear, etc. So I guess Left Front would be A, Right rear would be D, etc?
2) SPEAKER CONNECTIONS: First remove the passive crossover right?
Then where would I go next? For example, on the amp, would Front Left be for a tweeter, and Rear Left be for a mid (both in drivers door) then same for passenger side?
Thanks!
Anyway, DLS says tweets will handle 90wrms, mids 150wrms which is fine becaude the new amp will be 65-85 per channel.
2 Questions:
1) AMP INPUT: The amp has A-B-C-D labels for RCA connections instead of left, right, front, back, etc, but my Pioneer pre puts are labeled Left Front, Left Rear, etc. So I guess Left Front would be A, Right rear would be D, etc?
2) SPEAKER CONNECTIONS: First remove the passive crossover right?
Then where would I go next? For example, on the amp, would Front Left be for a tweeter, and Rear Left be for a mid (both in drivers door) then same for passenger side?
Thanks!
#2
Once you go Active, you won't look back.
As long as you set up the amp properly (assuming you're using the amp for processing) it doesn't, matter what plus into where, to keep things easy to remember, you'll wanna do something like tweets will be "A" and "B", mids will be "C" and "D" A and C left, B and D right draw it up on paper how you want it before you start and just always refer to the paper, very easy to blow up a tweet by putting it on the slot in the amp you've already set up to play midrange.
Passives should be removed yes, you can use a passive in a 3-way front plus sub set up, like tweets and midranges running on passives, and then active for midbass and sub bass.
The amp will power whatever set of speakers is hooked to that particular channel, for example, if you plug the left front tweet's rca into channel "A" of the amp, make damn sure sure the amp is set to run a tweeter (highpass) and that channel "A" is going to the left front (tweeter.)
As long as you set up the amp properly (assuming you're using the amp for processing) it doesn't, matter what plus into where, to keep things easy to remember, you'll wanna do something like tweets will be "A" and "B", mids will be "C" and "D" A and C left, B and D right draw it up on paper how you want it before you start and just always refer to the paper, very easy to blow up a tweet by putting it on the slot in the amp you've already set up to play midrange.
Passives should be removed yes, you can use a passive in a 3-way front plus sub set up, like tweets and midranges running on passives, and then active for midbass and sub bass.
The amp will power whatever set of speakers is hooked to that particular channel, for example, if you plug the left front tweet's rca into channel "A" of the amp, make damn sure sure the amp is set to run a tweeter (highpass) and that channel "A" is going to the left front (tweeter.)
#4
Once you go Active, you won't look back.
As long as you set up the amp properly (assuming you're using the amp for processing) it doesn't, matter what plus into where, to keep things easy to remember, you'll wanna do something like tweets will be "A" and "B", mids will be "C" and "D" A and C left, B and D right draw it up on paper how you want it before you start and just always refer to the paper, very easy to blow up a tweet by putting it on the slot in the amp you've already set up to play midrange.
Passives should be removed yes, you can use a passive in a 3-way front plus sub set up, like tweets and midranges running on passives, and then active for midbass and sub bass.
The amp will power whatever set of speakers is hooked to that particular channel, for example, if you plug the left front tweet's rca into channel "A" of the amp, make damn sure sure the amp is set to run a tweeter (highpass) and that channel "A" is going to the left front (tweeter.)
As long as you set up the amp properly (assuming you're using the amp for processing) it doesn't, matter what plus into where, to keep things easy to remember, you'll wanna do something like tweets will be "A" and "B", mids will be "C" and "D" A and C left, B and D right draw it up on paper how you want it before you start and just always refer to the paper, very easy to blow up a tweet by putting it on the slot in the amp you've already set up to play midrange.
Passives should be removed yes, you can use a passive in a 3-way front plus sub set up, like tweets and midranges running on passives, and then active for midbass and sub bass.
The amp will power whatever set of speakers is hooked to that particular channel, for example, if you plug the left front tweet's rca into channel "A" of the amp, make damn sure sure the amp is set to run a tweeter (highpass) and that channel "A" is going to the left front (tweeter.)
I will be doing the processing thru the amp. I was going batshit crazy trying to get everything perfect thru the deck before and someone wisely suggested I do my crossing etc at the amp (deck is pretty much flat) and its worked out nicely.
the 4004 will do an active set up, you just have to be a little creative
The other amp I am looking at is not "better", just simpler for me to work with I think, as far as settings and whatnot. In fact, it is actually rated at 65 wrms per channel, where my MTX certificate says 72, so its more of a sideways move than an upgrade for power.
Thanks, very helpful info gentlemen!
John
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post